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Rock & Rave

Posted February 28, 2013 at 8:42 am · Comments { 3 } ·

DPM was in Atlanta over the weekend for the highly successful Rock & Rave fundraiser held at Stone Summit.  With the help of celebrities like Chris Sharma, Kurt Smith and Hans Florine, about $36,000 was raised for the Access Fund, the Southeastern Climbers Coalition and the Carolina Climbers’ Coalition.

Idea for next year:  put the ABS Nationals broadcast up during the event and have people bid money on how many times things like “Asana moment” or “she’s got blank for days” or “that climber is brave and humble” are said.

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Another 5.14 For Young Drew Ruana

Posted February 27, 2013 at 9:59 am · Comments { 33 } ·

13-year-old Drew Ruana has redpointed another 5.
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14a at Smith Rock, OR, this time repeating Scarface after about 15 tries.  This is already Drew’s 4th 5.14!  Video of the ascent can be seen here.

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Flat Mountain

Posted February 27, 2013 at 7:27 am · Comments { 3 } ·

Nice gallery by Eddie Gianelloni of Daniel Woods and Sachi Amma working Yuji Hirayama’s Flat Mountain (5.14+) in Futigoyama, Japan during Woods’ recent trip there.

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Chipping Caught On Film In New York

Posted February 20, 2013 at 5:05 pm · Comments { 71 } ·

I guess when Ivan Greene says on his Edelrid athlete page1 that his occupation is being a “rock climber and artist” he really meant it.  With an emphasis on the artist part.
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Back story on the video is here.

Sick, and not in a cool way.

Update – Statement from Edelrid:

We would like to state unequivocally that EDELRID does not support the practice of chipping. It is our belief that the challenge, and the pleasure of climbing, lies in rock formations, as they occur naturally.

With this in mind we can state that we find the recent behaviour of Ivan Greene to be completely unacceptable, and we would like to take this opportunity to clarify that he is no longer an EDELRID sponsored athlete, and in actuality has not been supported by the brand for over 12 months.
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We will be removing all references to Ivan Greene from the EDELRID website with immediate effect.

  1.  Why Edelrid would sponsor him in the first place is beyond me ↩
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11 V11’s Or Harder. In A Day.

Posted February 20, 2013 at 1:11 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

UKC has the rundown on Jan Hojer’s idea of a “rest” day:  climbing 11 V11’s or harder in Ticino.  Or as I like to refer to it:  11 more V11’s or harder than I’ve done in the 10,870 days I’ve been alive.
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 That has to be some kind of record.

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Lowering Off The Pressure

Posted February 19, 2013 at 10:00 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Adam Ondra, writing about his efforts on La Dura Dura for La Sportiva:

As I felt so strong, I decided not to take another restday, and try the very next day. Lowering off the pressure, taking it less seriously. But from the morning, I had doubts about this decision. My forearms were a little sore, Chris typed me a message that he was taking rest as he felt sore. But I persisted.

For me this is one of the big takeaways from this send that can be relevant  for all climbers, not just mutants.  It took me a long time to realize this—and in many ways I still struggle to harness this knowledge—but oftentimes success in climbing comes at times when your mind least expects it.

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Angie Payne On The 2013 Hueco Rock Rodeo

Posted February 19, 2013 at 7:20 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Angie Payne, writing about her experience at the 2013 Hueco Rock Rodeo:

It was an incredibly hard 8+ hours of climbing, but I had the pleasure of spending the entire day with a great group of strong women and many other entertaining people.  I laughed even more than I flailed on boulders, so it must have been a good day!

Winning never hurts either.  At least I imagine it doesn’t.

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