Impressive trip to Rocklands for Anna Stöhr as she repeats The Power Of One (V13) and The Vice (V13):
Once again, Anna has broken through the glass ceiling and set a new precedent for female bouldering, by sending these two lines, needing only three days to crack, The Power of One, and four for, The Vice. Hats off to Anna for raising the bar one notch higher!
Not bad to go along with her six bouldering World Cup victories so far this year.
Adam Ondra continues to use the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway as his personal 5.15 playground, this time with the FA of Iron Curtain (5.15b). Lest you think 5.15b has become “easy” for him, he assures PlanetMountain that this is not the case:
9b (5.15b) standard for me? I wish! No, 9b is still a really hard route, certainly not something I would do in an afternoon without too much effort.
According to the same article, Ondra has multiple 5.15+ projects lined up and ready including one that is almost 200 feet long!
Climbing has the report from the inaugural Psicobloc Masters Series event held Friday night that saw Sasha DiGiulian and Jimmy Webb both walk away ,000 richer for besting the competition in their respective fields.
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I have yet to have any time to actually watch the comp myself, but I get the impression that overall it went off very well with some common complaints surfacing regarding things like announcers and other aspects of the broadcast that can always be improved on.
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Most tellingly, the sentiment I saw from viewers and competitors alike seemed to be: when will people stop posting pictures of the wall on Instagram when can we do this again? Catch a replay of the event here.
Interesting piece on Vertical Life about The Wheel Of Life, one of the most repeated hard boulder problems in the world:
It wasn’t that long ago – sometime after Fred Nicole’s ascent of the final link in the cave puzzle, Sleepy Hollow, in 2000 – that I can remember walking from the bottom of the cave to the top, feeling many of those well-fondled, chalked-up holds that miraculously link together and speculating about the eventual ascent of the entire line. At the time I thought it would take a generation or two. How wrong I was.
Daniel Woods has done the 9th ascent of Dai Koyamada’s The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. On his 8a scorecard he suggests a route grade of 5.14d and says that this problem is, “in my top 3 roof/adventure climbs that I have done”. Woods is now on his way to Salt Lake City where he will compete this week in the Psicobloc deep water soloing comp.
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Now is the time to bail out of work at 4 p.m., or 3 p.m., and head to your favorite crag, trail, or hill climb. Or get up at 5 a.m. and do something fun before you head into the office. You can Tivo all those shows or baseball games or whatever it is on TV tonight.
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You cannot Tivo summer sunsets, riding your bike around city streets in the dark, eating ice cream cones on park benches, and your dog’s relentless enthusiasm for fetching that ball no matter how many times you throw it.
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You’ve been warned.
Daniel Woods sits down with The Circuit for an interview while he is in Australia:
So it’s just funny to see this stagnant plateau that we’re sitting at right now. There’s honestly things that I’ve done that I think are 8c+ but I want to repeat other things (at the 8c level) before I can push those things and say “Ok, these things are definitely a step above the past generations test pieces”. That’s when it’s right to say “OK, they’re harder” you know.
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