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→ New 5.14 By Sonnie Trotter∞

Posted September 5, 2013 at 1:56 pm · Comments { 6 } ·

Always nice to see Sonnie Trotter in the news:

Sonnie Trotter has just completed his summer project,Castles in the Sky, on Castle Mountain in the Canadian Rockies. The bolted route, rated 5.14a, rises five pitches up a prow on a lower buttress of the mountain. While the route features moderate pitches of rock near the bottom, a dramatic overhanging arête guards access to the route’s final and easier pitches.
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The key to success??  WWTCD of course:

When things got tough, however, he would ask himself “what would Tommy Caldwell do?”

∞ · Comments { 6 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }

→ On The Anniversary Of The Death Of Wolfgang Güllich∞

Posted September 4, 2013 at 9:13 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Interesting look back on Wolfgang Güllich who died in a car accident on August 29, 1992:

Apart from Ben Moon’s Hubble – which, though graded 8c+/34 Wolfgang always thought of as a soft 8c – from 1984 to 1991, Güllich established every major grade from 8b (31) to 9a (35) making him one of, if not the most successful climber of his time. Looking back from this day and being able to map the evolution of climbing since, the question must be asked, had Wolfgang not died in 1992, would he have gone on to do the world’s first 9a+?

∞ · Comments { 6 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 0 }
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→ European Bouldering Championship: Fischhuber And Stöhr Win In Eindhoven∞

Posted September 4, 2013 at 8:48 am · Comments { 0 } ·

How unsurprising:

On Sunday night at Eindhoven (The Netherlands) the Austrians Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber won the European Bouldering Championship 2013.

If you didn’t catch it this past weekend live, you can watch a replay of the entire comp here.

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→ Chris Sharma Conquers La Dura Dura∞

Posted August 29, 2013 at 10:40 am · Comments { 26 } ·

Interesting piece by Andrew Bisharat for Prana looking at Chris Sharma’s journey to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c):

Some five years ago, La Dura Dura didn’t exist other than as a simple, vague desire within Sharma to progress as a climber. In 2008, at 27 years old, Sharma had just sent Jumbo Love, thereby establishing the first rock climb rated 5.15b. This was actually the second time Sharma had advanced the world standard; in 2001, he climbed Realization, the first 5.15a. By many measures, Sharma had proven himself to be the best climber of his generation. It was something he had been told all his adult life, too—flattering hype that always made him uncomfortable, if not wary.
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But it wasn’t until he completed Jumbo Love that he realized one of the reasons why.
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Sharma looked within and realized he’d been climbing for 15 years and, thus far, he hadn’t really had to try very hard to be the best.

∞ · Comments { 26 } · Climbers { 2 } · Areas { 1 }

→ Being Alex Megos∞

Posted August 29, 2013 at 9:48 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Nice interview with Alex Megos by Nick Fletcher:

Watching Alex climb is like watching an elite athlete running or swimming (for example). There’s no discernible effort – yet you know how hard he’s trying and in some cases you know first hand how hard the moves are from your own attempts, Alex just pieces the moves together with a calmness and fluidity that only comes from years of climbing and training at the highest level.
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It’s also worth noting that in addition to doing the FA of Australia’s hardest sport route, Megos established a new link-up in the Hollow Mountain Cave called Wheelchair that he feels is harder than the well-known Wheel Of Life.  Vertical Life has all the details on that, although at this point I feel like I could use some sort of interactive map to figure out all the possible variations in this massive cave!

∞ · Comments { 4 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }

→ Annual Hound Ears Comp Cancelled∞

Posted August 28, 2013 at 8:49 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Bad news for fans of the annual bouldering comp that has taken place for 19 years at Hound Ears in North Carolina:

For 19 years, the Hound Ears Club has graciously allowed one of the largest and most successful climbing competitions to take place on their property. Each year the event is allowed based on Hound Ears Club Board approval.
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Despite the excellent relationship that has been developed over nearly two decades, it appears that the board has decided to not allow the competition to take place in 2013. We are actively seeking for the board to reconsider their decision with the support of both the Access Fund and the American Alpine Club.
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Update – Even worse news:

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→ 12-Year-Old Ashima Shiraishi Repeats The Automator (V13)∞

Posted August 26, 2013 at 9:59 pm · Comments { 13 } ·

As usual these days, if it doesn’t happen on Instagram it didn’t happen.
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The it in this case is 12-year-old Ashima Shiraishi making a quick 2 day repeat of The Automator (V13) in RMNP, CO. She is the 2nd female to climb this problem after Angie Payne in 2010, and she is the youngest person of either gender to climb this quintessential Park testpiece.

Jade next??

∞ · Comments { 13 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }