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→ El Sendero Luminoso Q & A With Alex Honnold∞

Posted January 23, 2014 at 8:40 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Alpinist caught up with Alex Honnold for a little Q & A about his recent free solo of El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico:

I used to be scared of spiders but I kind of got over it. I mean, with a route like El Sendero, I definitely felt some anxiety or nervousness beforehand, but I think a lot of that comes with experiencing something new. I didn’t know how it would go because I’d never done anything like it before. Stepping into the unknown is always a little unnerving. But I wouldn’t necessarily call that scary, I’d call it more stimulating than anything.

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→ Listening For The Echo∞

Posted January 22, 2014 at 9:10 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Really nice profile by Chris Schulte for Rock & Ice of the legendary Klem Loskot:

These shouts have been in our heads since the year 2000, when Loskot’s marshaling call hit the States with BigUp Production’s Dosage 1. You still can’t go to any bouldering area without hearing a Klem impersonation. The yell is a power-boosting Kiaa! that frees up the chi and fires us like burning arrows. Or maybe when it booms across the gym as you hesitate on the big swingin’ huck, you laugh yourself into a heap, crumpled at the base of the wall. The yell centers and disperses, tricking you into focusing and also reminding you to lighten up.

Much to Mrs. Narc’s chagrin, I’m definitely that guy1.

  1.  The one who yells encouragement at people like I’m Klem Loskot, not the one who climbs hard boulders ↩
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→ Chris Webb Parsons. Representing.∞

Posted January 21, 2014 at 7:53 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Really nice interview by Simon Carter with Aussie Chris Webb Parsons:

Oh, my thumb. I use it like another finger. When I first started climbing I was reading about how to get stronger, about finger boarding etc.
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I figured out that there was a lot of strength in my thumb and I remember sitting in school, my maths class, and I was just mucking around on the edge of the desk and I was playing with my fingers and I had my thumbs on the edge of the desk and I was like I wonder if you could use that as a crimp?
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So I began twisting my thumb and really stretching them, every day, stretching them. I remember they were really hurting. But I just kept crimping the edge of the desk and began to use it on certain holds.
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→ Like A Ballerina∞

Posted January 16, 2014 at 6:06 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Alex Honnold, after soloing the sustained 1,500+ ft. 5.12 El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico:

“It felt pretty straight forward,” he says. “Once I started up, I was like this is awesome. I didn’t blow a single foot—like a ballerina.”

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→ Climber Accused Of Murder In Carderock Death∞

Posted January 15, 2014 at 7:25 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Bizarre and sad story at Maryland’s Carderock:

A Virginia rock climber has been charged with manslaughter after allegedly attacking a man with a claw hammer at Carderock Park in Montgomery County.

A reader had emailed me about this a couple weeks ago under the initial assumption that the deceased, Geoffrey ‘Carderock Geoff’ Farrar, had died in a climbing accident.
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 That was obviously sad enough, but to have it take this kind of turn is even more unfortunate.
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→ La Lune∞

Posted January 14, 2014 at 8:35 am · Comments { 0 } ·

After leaving empty handed last year, Jonathan Siegrist returns to Las Vegas and makes quick work of his project in Arrow Canyon, La Lune:

 I invested so much in this route and spent so many hours in 2013 dreaming about it. It was very difficult for me to walk away without success last year.
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It feels strange to have it done now, especially considering how damn hard I thought it was after last season.
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Could I have improved this much?
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Maybe I was completely destroyed mentally and physically last season and all I needed was a fresh start? I’m really not sure to be honest, and after being prepared for war against this seemingly undefeatable opponent, to claim victory after such a short battle almost seems unfair; it’s almost as though I wanted the process to last longer.

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→ Bernd Zangerl Talks About Shantaram∞

Posted January 13, 2014 at 8:20 am · Comments { 0 } ·

UKC caught up with Bernd Zangerl to discuss his new problem Shantaram, which he opened this past summer in Norway:

It is my hardest problem for sure – I can’t compare it with anything I did in the past. Regardless of the number which will be related to “Shantaram” in the future, the first ascent on June 11, 2013 as well as the journey to accomplish it are among the most intense of my climbing life…
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my highlight!

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