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My Actions, My Responsibility, And My Mistake

Joe Kinder, writing on his blog about an incident that took place recently near Tahoe:

To make a long story short, I was recently informed that I had done something wrong last month while establishing new routes at an underground crag in the Tahoe region of California. I cut down two trees. Not just any trees, either. Junipers.

I’d like to try to address and speak about the specifics of my actions, but in doing so, I want to make no mistake that this was a regrettable error on my part. I am deeply apologetic about what I did. I was wrong. I F’d up. And I’m very sorry. Now, I’m using my blog, my voice and my position in the climbing community to bring awareness to an important issue of route development in order to prevent people who may be as ignorant as I once was from doing this in the future.

There’s no doubt that this was a bad mistake, and Kinder should have known better1.  He only compounded his problems when he tried to hide from the situation by deleting any evidence from social media and denying what happened according to this story on the Adventure Journal.

Unfortunately, in today’s time there is the story about what actually happened and then there is the story about how people respond to what happened.  Kinder puts himself out there more than most climbers do which is usually to his benefit, but this has also put him in the position that many people are looking for the first reason to tear him down.  This nearly 500 post long SuperTopo thread got hundreds of posts deep before anyone even knew what they were really yelling about, and the armchair internet judgement from most post posters has been swift and resolute:  Joe Kinder is the worst person ever.  This sort of mob mentality is not unique to the climbing world by any stretch, but its seeming ubiquity in our society today doesn’t make it any more right or constructive.

At this point no amount of criticism or apologizing will change what happened, so in my mind what is most important is what can happen going forward.  Actions speak louder than words.  The ball is in Kinder’s court.

  1. Incidentally, this is not the first time he has issued a mea culpa for his actions as a route developer
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Adam Ondra’s Sabbatical

Nice interview with Adam Ondra reflecting on his 15 months as a full-time climber:

No, I wasn’t tempted to [postpone going to college to continue climbing full time]. Because I know that if I didn’t have to be home to study, it would be hard to persuade myself into hard training.
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But as I have to go to school, it’s easier to stay in Brno and really train in a structured way.
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I will be competing in the last two World Cup events this year mainly to regain the experience and to see how it feels like, but I will not be training especially for them.
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Video Friday – 10/18/2013

Video Friday – 10/18/2013

The highest rated videos of the past week

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Seek And You Shall Find

Katie Lambert, writing on her blog about a summer spent climbing some of the hardest routes in one of my favorite places on Earth, Tuolumne:

The exposure was surreal and it was starting to give me the creeps. I thought to myself that all I had to do was mantle up, make a couple of moves and get to the next bolt.  Except the holds were dirty and covered in lichen and every time I pulled up with a heel hook into the mantle my hands would slip a little and every time I would climb back down and way back left to the last bolt 15 feet behind me. I did this about 5 times, each time looking back at my 9.
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1 rope draped across sharp knobs, wondering if the sideways fall into the unknown below the roof would cut my rope. Eventually I returned to the belay, leaving behind two lowerout biners and we rapped to the ground. John Bachar Lives played over and over in my head as we walked down the trail and I was more intrigued than ever.
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This piece really took me back to my trip to Tuolumne and made me realize that no matter your skill level anyone can have that quintessential Tuolumne experience whether it’s on a 5.5 or on a 5.13.  It seemed fitting to finally post this on the day the national parks re-open.
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A Project No More

A Project No More

Carlo Traversi does the FA of a long-standing project in Washington

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Climbing Beyond Boehner’s Reach

Freddie Wilkinson takes to the Op-Ed section of The New York Times to talk about how the government shutdown has affected the climbing scene in Yosemite:

The most anticipated event of this climbing season was to be an effort by Tommy Caldwell of Colorado to lead a team of climbers to become the first to free climb the Dawn Wall — that is, climbing by hand and foot without using gear to make upward progress — a feat Mr. Caldwell has been pursuing for the last seven years.
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Chris Sharma, a reigning icon of the action-sports world, was to join the climber Kevin Jorgeson in the effort, which they ended up postponing.
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“It’s like Michael Phelps showing up at the Olympics, only to find the pool has been drained,” said Andrew Bisharat, an editor for Rock and Ice Magazine.
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V12 FA By Dorothea Karalus In The Grampians

Dorothea Karalus, writing on her blog about her FA of the stellar looking problem In The Clouds (V12) in the Grampians:

On cloudy days attempts were usually thwarted by rain showers, so we resorted to night sessions. I made slow but steady progress and one dry evening I managed to stick the crux third move from the bottom only to fall going to the gaston! Nervously I rested for a bit, managed to stay calm and did the probably first ascent the same night!
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As noted by B3Bouldering, this is likely one of the hardest FA’s ever done by a woman.

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