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Video Friday – 10/25/2013

Video Friday – 10/25/2013

Posted October 25, 2013 at 7:01 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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→ 5.14c For Eva Lopez∞

Posted October 24, 2013 at 12:02 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Great to see this news about 42-year-old Eva Lopez repeating Potemkin, a 5.14c in Cuenca, Spain that she actually bolted but did not get the FA of.
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→ Interview With Dorothea Karalus∞

Posted October 24, 2013 at 8:58 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Vertical Life catches up with Dorothea Karalus after her FA of In The Clouds (V12) in the Grampians:

The boulder has two perfect and very obvious starting holds and follows a beautiful line of very small horizontal crimps with a sequence revolving around a tiny crimp and a gaston flake in the end. It is rare that you find such a pure crimp boulder that is not awkward and sharp! With the exception of the first move all the five to six moves are hard and uncompromisingly powerful: I tried various drop-knee variants, but the footholds are just too sparse and bad for that.

 

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→ Petzl Responds To Joe Kinder Situation∞

Posted October 23, 2013 at 8:15 am · Comments { 42 } ·

Petzl, one of Joe Kinder’s sponsors, weighs in on Junipergate:

But as actions speak louder than words, we’re encouraged that in addition to paying a fine to the Forest Service, Joe has also decided to donate $1,000 to the Sierra Nevada Alliance, whose mission is to protect and restore the natural resources of the Sierra Nevada for future generations while promoting sustainable communities. Joe will also donate a week of his time to tree planting and other service in Yosemite National Park.
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…snip…

We appreciate Joe’s apology and his willingness to back it up with action.
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We believe that every mistake is an opportunity for growth and learning. With this in mind, we will be funding a new communications program in partnership with the Access Fund.

Sure seems like some good is going to come out of this after all.

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→ Kinder Kind Of Climbers∞

Posted October 23, 2013 at 7:42 am · Comments { 12 } ·

In the nearly 1,000 posts about Junipergate on Supertopo I found at least one redeeming item in the form of this post on Wavehaven Adventures:

If someone proclaims that they are the most influential rock star around, then they better be able to produce the whole package. The package, as the saying goes, is that with freedom comes responsibility.
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Kinder’s freedom to climb just about anywhere in the world as a professional climber is an incredible luxury. One might think that as a world wide climbing ambassador he would follow basic ethical standards set forth through the collective climbing community.
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He botched it big time by breaking that trust, but in some ways so has the climbing community. Trashing him is so blatantly counter-productive. If the community would stop bitching him out and take a deep breath we might actually get something more constructive out of this- like giving Kinder a chance to redeem himself.
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→ New V15 In Fionnay By Dave Graham∞

Posted October 22, 2013 at 7:59 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Dave Graham has succeeded in doing the FA of a long-time project of his in Fionnay, Switzerland that he’s calling Foundation’s Edge.

Swiss granite rock has always suited Graham as he has now done a number of his hardest FAs in the various Cantons of Switzerland, starting way back in 2005 when he did both From Dirt Grows The Flowers and The Story Of Two Worlds within a couple of months of each other.

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→ Andrew Palmer Joins The 5.15 Club∞

Posted October 22, 2013 at 7:51 am · Comments { 4 } ·

DPM catches up with the relatively unknown Andrew Palmer after his repeat of Jaws II (5.15a) in Rumney, NH:

I never really thought Jaws II was possible for me but it’s the next independent line if you want to try something harder than Livin’ Astro. It’s funny, but I was at work the day Adam Ondra sent La Dura Dura (5.15c) and I got so excited I had to do a lap around the office. My mentality shifted and all of a sudden I knew I had to try it at least.
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Always great to see a climber with a “real” job out there getting it done at such a high level.

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