The highest rated videos of the past week…
About Narc
Video Friday – 3/13/2015
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→ The Dawn Wall Interviews∞
Cool, interactive piece from Climbing on the Dawn Wall featuring interviews with both Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell. I particularly liked this quote from Tommy about why he is so relentlessly positive even in the face of a seemingly insurmountable challenge like the Dawn Wall:
It helps to have almost died a few times in your life! [Laughs.] That brings things into perspective! I think the hard things I’ve gone through have made me want to embrace every day to its absolute fullest.
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Those experiences have helped make me who I am today. But part of that is also being a part of a great community and having my own great role model in my dad.
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I mean, my dad is absurdly optimistic, and that’s contagious.
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→ Chris Sharma Talks About His Latest FA∞
PlanetMountain caught up with Chris Sharma on the heels of his recent FA of El Bon Combat:
It’s about 25m long, up some really interesting rock, a mix of sandstone and conglomerate that offers some really cool climbing, up this beautiful blue streak and tiny conglomerate pebbles. The moves are unique, completely different from what I was used to at Oliana, Margalef and Santa Linya. Imagine five 8A boulder problems stacked one on top of the other, with a few rests, but nothing great. The moves are very dynamic and yet at the same time extremely subtle, even though they’re right my style I found them to be really tricky.
New 5.15 From Chris Sharma In Spain
Chris Sharma is “back” with another 5.15 in Spain
Video Friday – 3/6/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week…
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Video Friday – 2/27/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week…
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→ Ticked Off∞
Despite the obvious benefit of chalk for climbing—its drying effect on sweaty hands—climbers can often get carried away with it. Over the years, chalk gets caked onto holds, forming layers, which affects the texture of the rock and the friction of that very poor sloper. Too many ticks can also cause confusion on a route, botch on-sight attempts, and ruin the self-discovery and problem-solving aspect of climbing.
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If there is one trend I noticed during my time in Colorado it’s that you would think boulderers were going blind with the amount of tick marks being used these days. It was not uncommon to walk up to a boulder and see multiple tick marks, often garishly long, per hand and foot, with the person who actually put them there long since gone from the problem. Usually the harder the boulder, the worse this problem got.
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Judicious and discrete use of tick marks for key holds that are cleaned off after every session is one thing, using tick marks like tape in the gym is something completely different.
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- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] that they didn’t see repeats for decad...
- J: Two slings half inch webbing 24 inch sewn slings w...
- Animull89: So gnarly that he did that twice...I remember the ...
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