Going into the bouldering leg of our trip in RMNP, I had pretty low expectations.
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The cast from my latest surgery had only been off for 2 months, I got bouted in Yosemite recently and didn’t feel all that strong during my most recent outing to Governor Dodge. However, I surprised myself on our first day of climbing by quickly sending Potato Chip (V7ish?) on the so-called Warmup boulder; thus I set the goal of climbing another problem of a similar grade before we left.
I contemplated Tommy’s Arete as an option being that I had worked on it during my previous RMNP outing. I ended up focusing my efforts on Mikala (V7ish?) instead; the short-lived crux followed by what is basically V1 climbing seemed better suited to my lack of power endurance and decided lack of skin. The problem ended up being sharper than I would have liked, and I realized that extensive pulling with my right foot toward the first hold would be key if I were to send while I still had skin.
Here is a patched together sequence from some of my initial efforts prior to the non-documented send:
At this point I was initially trying to finish out right toward the inviting tick mark, but it ended up being much easier to finish up and left. Anyone know what the deal is with this?? Going up right would seem to be a somewhat contrived eliminate.
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About to take a nasty fall…
As for the argument that both Potato Chip and Mikala are soft for V7, I don’t have a great frame of reference having not climbed for so long. Regardless, I considered Potato Chip the superior problem as it is a more consistent climb.
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In any event, taking the higher points having fun is what is most important right??
nice work! raking in the points… cha-ching!
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Are you saying the Park is soft? 🙂
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just trying to remain brave and humble is all 🙂
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potato chip is about a thousand times more difficult than mikayla, mahkayla, makilia [spwtf?], [especially if you have a 5’11 or more reach for the m-word]. also, the finsih of that m-word line is v2 at least. take heart in your success.
also, your beta on brushing is all off. that adjacent rock is off and i hope you didn’t take full points for it.
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just be careful man! you just got fixed not too long ago!
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So true! I just can’t help it!
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@sockhands – Climbing is a very strange game. it took me 5x as many tries to do Mikala due to the low percentage nature of the first move but I would probably have to agree with it being easier that PC.
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As I recall everything is v7 to socktard anywyas.
frittas4life,
sweaty
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FRITTERS 4 YOR FACE 4 LYFE !!!!!!!
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sock hands seems to be losing sight of the ‘V7 is everything mantra’…
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haha. you’re not the only one that noticed that huh?…wierd
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if that is the proper brushing technique, then I’ve been doing it all wrong for years.
good jorb d00d!
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not to pounce on your parade, but mikala has always been graded v6 max. Once you know the move it really is prob more of a 5.
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no pouncing at all. I would tend to agree with you which is why I updated my spray card earlier in the week.
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