Pamela “Shanti” Pack And The Forever War

12 Responses to Pamela “Shanti” Pack And The Forever War

1. 

   Curtis September 20, 2012 at 8:11 am #

   Not trying to be a hater, just wondering what’s up with the 2 bolts? Is the crack too wide there without giant cams? Are they there because of the head smashing flake mentioned in the video?

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     Narc September 20, 2012 at 8:13 am #

     From her initial report on the route:

     We added two bolts to the route after an earlier fall put me in the hospital for five days with a damaged kidney.

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2. 

   kanye September 20, 2012 at 11:27 am #

   is it still R rated with the bolts? if R means you’ll get hurt (kidneys), then minimizing the risk with bolts should eliminate the R…

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     danger September 22, 2012 at 12:41 am #

     she said you have a possibility of head hitting a flake even on top rope.
     so still R, probably

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3. 

   tbd September 20, 2012 at 4:09 pm #

   why not bolt the whole bloody thing then? Don’t think off-widthing will ever become mainstream- seems a little self important to be partially bolting it if there are like 4 people that would ever try it.

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4. 

   nick September 21, 2012 at 1:40 am #

   the R means you can still take a nasty header into the flake(like when youre finding a good placement for that first boat anchor and thengo to clip it). the bolts protected the move that hospitalized her and gave her two surgeries. and its pamala pak. if she thinks the thing needs some fixed pro, than it probably needs fixed pro. and if not then whatever. shes the first ascentist, she can do what she wants. if someone wants to climb it in a bolder style they are more than willing to

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5. 

   Nate September 21, 2012 at 2:02 am #

   It’s refreshing to watch a women slay an offwidth instead of another lame bouldering video. Thank you Pamela for keeping climbing rad!

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6. 

   D September 21, 2012 at 9:03 am #

   Marry me?

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7. 

   steve-ow October 13, 2012 at 9:54 pm #

   hahah, yes i have been on the WAR, in all honestly , it NEEDS it, she did well, more people will understand it if they ever get the HONOR of playing with it, GETTING IT is a strong statement !!!!playing it is more of a reality!!

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     steve-ow October 13, 2012 at 10:02 pm #

     TDB, im going to kick you like a PUPPY!!!

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       Pamela Shanti Pack October 13, 2012 at 11:05 pm #

       Oh me too! I love kicking puppies!

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8. 

   P. Kingsbury October 15, 2012 at 10:57 am #

   Great job on the route Pamela, that thing is bad to the bone!

   Concerning the bolts and the R rating.

   The roof is directly over a large flake at the start and the angle of the roof makes it a real possibility to land on it, head first. We were trying for an all traditional route, and put many days in trying to put it up ” head point” style. Where the two bolts are located you can get a number six in, but its very much in the way and we both kicked it out on tr enough times each to decide the risk wasn’t worth the reward. It’s brutally hard there, and in my opinion (and Pamela’s), the bolts are needed. I personally placed them both.

   With the bolts, the R is slightly less and you probably won’t break your head open as the kick through is protected nicely now. However, if you blow the next piece above the bolts (arm bar for most, and the crux), you will certainly hit the flake back first and potentially spend the rest of your days in wheelchair.

   The Forever War is truly a battle and was easily one of the proudest ascents I’ve personally witnessed. Great job again Pamela, and I can’t wait for the next one!!! Its going to be a good season!!!

   I hope this clears things up.

   Cheers,
   Patrick

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