Chris Sharma – Back In Céüse – Sport Climbing And Bolting In France

16 Responses to Chris Sharma – Back In Céüse – Sport Climbing And Bolting In France

1. 

   jingored September 4, 2012 at 12:55 pm #

   My question with Sharma, as well as Ondra, and most other European sport climbers, has always been the same, is there a point at which a climb is not a climb? Is there a point at which you are not “climbing” but just doing gymnastics. If a route sends only after 500 tries, with heavy pre-bolting/pre-drawing, is it actually a climb? The classic argument, Yosemite or France. In my humble opinion this is why Alex Honnold is the greatest “climber” of our time, if not of all time. Because he is actually “climbing” a route, with actual risk, as well as doing so with great respect for the rock. Alex is a direct decendent of John Muir, Norman Clyde, John Bachar, Randy Leavit….etc…and while Chris is an amazing climber, he really does not belong to this ancestry. It’s so hard to even imagine vandalizing El Cap, just to put up a route that only goes after 6 months of practicing.

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     cgh September 4, 2012 at 3:10 pm #

     You don’t know much about the history of rock climbing if you think working routes, including those with pre-placed protection, is something new.

     I have huge respect for Alex Honnold, but he’s worked his fair share of routes too. Just saying.

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2. 

   Art Cork September 4, 2012 at 1:25 pm #

   “It’s so hard to even imagine vandalizing El Cap, just to put up a route that only goes after 6 months of practicing.”

   It took decades for climbers to free The Nose (and yes there are bolts up there). Dawn Wall has been worked and practiced by Tommy and friends for many years now without a send (hoping this year it will go!)

   Many climbers think “their” way is the only way. I guess it somehow makes them feel superior to other folks. Many Trad guys look down on sport climbers. Many sport climbers look down on boulders. Alpinest probably think we are giant panzies. The whole thing is kinda sad and pointless. Enjoy what you do for what it is, otherwise you are in it for the wrong reason.

   Sharma has opened sport climbing up to new posibilities and all people should respect that.

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     Guy P September 4, 2012 at 1:48 pm #

     I think we’re all climbers and each style lets us enjoy another aspect of this amazing sport(?).

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     Spro1 September 4, 2012 at 4:09 pm #

     Vandalizing el cap? First, the Nose would be an impossible free climb without all the pin scars from aid climbing. Second, would that mean Robbins and everyone else on that wall has vandalized el cap by not using all clean aid? Third, the dawn wall features pitches with all gear if I’m not mistaken, and 40+ foot falls on hand drilled bolts hardly seems like sport climbing to me. Fourth, Alex Honnold has lead many of the pitches he’s soloed, so you have an interesting line drawn for pre-rehearsed climbing. Fifth, Randy Leavitt bolted Jumbo Love, so I guess you now have to include Sharma in your ancestry list afterall.

     Sixth, this was a great video. And last but most importantly, few if any elite level alpinists, boulders, sportos, tradsters, ice whores and soloists believe sport climbing is neither.

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3. 

   TK September 4, 2012 at 2:07 pm #

   Agreed with Art- it’s amazing that we as climbers “self regulate” our sport
   so that the arguments on style of ascent or specific discipline are basically
   rendered moot. Bravo to Sharma and all others in their chosen style- if
   You find that style of rock climbing or route not to your liking,climb elsewhere.

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4. 

   Nick September 4, 2012 at 2:22 pm #

   Awesome video, great edit, sick climbing.

   Really cool to see Señor Sharma drilling a bolt!

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5. 

   Dan September 4, 2012 at 3:06 pm #

   No way my fingers could take that kind of punishment!

   Anyone know if Three Degrees of Separation has seen a second ascent yet?

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     Spro1 September 4, 2012 at 4:12 pm #

     No repeat on 3DS yet, but Pringle says it might be 9b.

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       Dan September 4, 2012 at 6:36 pm #

       Since the route is so dynamic, it’d be interesting to see if a comp crusher like Kilian F could send it.

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         colin September 4, 2012 at 11:27 pm #

         or Nalle? Maybe he could do Es pontas too? He’s pretty big and explosive.

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         Dylan September 5, 2012 at 4:02 pm #

         I read somewhere that Ondra was pretty close on it but decided to stop working it to save energy for his flash attempt on Biographie/Realization on his most recent trip to Ceuse.

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6. 

   Morgan September 5, 2012 at 8:26 am #

   does anyone know the name of this potential route? is this footage recent or just recently added by Petzl?

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7. 

   arcane September 6, 2012 at 7:06 am #

   Chris: You really need to refine those sequences. You cut off all the time!

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8. 

   Darren September 6, 2012 at 1:46 pm #

   Doobie at 7:02 for sure

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9. 

   Douglas Hunter September 7, 2012 at 4:53 pm #

   “Its just such a privilege to come to a perfect cliff and bolt such a perfect line.”

   Amen.

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