If the translation of this post on Dai Koyamada’s blog is accurate it looks like he’s managed to do a low start to Dave Graham’s The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland. After inadvertently climbing Graham’s line from the wrong start back in 2010, Koyamada has apparently returned to climb the boulder once again from a different, but this time lower than the original, start.
Update: More on Koyamada’s blog
Posted In: Bouldering, News
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If I am not mistaken, I think Dai did the low start to TSOTW. As in lower than the original start that was done by Dave.
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Well if that ain’t some damn good redemption. Pwnsauced.
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congratulations to Dai!
Nice redemption indeed.
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Yep. He started of by having a double toehook on the hold where Dave had his hands on the start. So the first move is bringing your hands to match your feet much like the move on Entlinge V15.
A friend who is staying next door from Dai saw the footage, and apparently it’s the clearest start to the line. Hopefully he will release the footage soon.
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Good writeup on The Story of Three Starts to a Boulder.
waka waka!
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really!? people are applauding dai for adding a crouch start to sit start and starting 1 minute hand movement different than dave did? starting with toe hooks above your head and reaching to the obvious crimp jug that dave started on is more logical?? riddle me that.
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ive seen it so many times where there is a contrived ridiculous move making a v6 a v10, where you go who the hell started there and why? but its there, it starts lower, therefore it is. These ascents should be recognized and applauded, but you are right WTF. But good on Dai for pushing it harder, thats what guys like him do.
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but if its more logical, right on
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Why would you hate on a guy for getting solid redemption?
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dig a little bit through old news stories on this boulder. Dai tried and repeated this boulder for its 2nd ascent (in my mind) but was told the incorrect start, after efforts in finding the correct start holds. So he comes back to switzerland and crushes it, what is there not to applaud?
also, kind of lame for Paul not to mention Dai in his send video in Schengen files, even putting “2nd ascent” on it.
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i find it not something we should applaud or redemption on a boulder but rather disrespectful to dave. his start is no more logical than what dave did and not at all lower. the only reason he started like this was because he started it wrong 2 years ago.
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How is adding a more difficult start to a problem “disrespectful?” You’re disrespecting a guys hard send because you see a new start to a boulder problem as a dick thing to do. If that is your tune, then you should make sure Dave Graham apologizes to Bernd Zangerl for disrespecting Boogalagga with his sit-start variation.
Dai got massive payback against a notoriously difficult problem – he didn’t rename, call Dave out, or change the grade, so all is good.
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totally agree
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