35 year-old Dai Koyamada is back in Magic Wood, Switzerland where he’s managed to do the likely 2nd ascent of In Search Of Time Lost, a V15 in the so-called “Darkness Cave” first done by Daniel Woods back in 2008. In an e-mail to UKClimbing Koyamada mentioned that he made sure to start the problem in the correct place, a reference to a situation in 2010 where he thought he had repeated The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) but later learned he had started in the wrong spot. In that same e-mail Koyamada also mentions that he will be in Switzerland for 40 days, so I doubt this is the last time we’ll be hearing from him.
Here’s some footage of Daniel Woods doing In Search Of Time Lost’s FA:
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXy2f9f4q6Y&w=540]
I don’t like how the whole “story of two worlds incident” is hanging over Dai. It was an honest mistake. I think it’s terrible that (judging by the way he mentioned it in the e-mail to ukclimbing.com) he was called out in a negative manner and that people instantly, without thought, disregarded his ascent. I wouldn’t want to be called out “again” either, but in this sport, I think it’s wrong to call him out in the first place over this send. It’s not like he completely lied about doing the climb altogether. Even then, benefit of the doubt.
Either way, congrats on the send. One v15 down, many more to come.
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its not hanging over him, honestly people on forums and websites often pay these things much more attention than climbers
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That is what I should have said. Other people are hanging it over Dai. But yea, people blow these things way out of proportion and act like its the end of the world if someone sat or crouched on a climb or started 1 move in or whatever the current debate of the month is.
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wouldn’t be surprised if he were to go repeat it from the “proper start” this trip.
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I don’t know that it was necessarily blown out of proportion, but maybe I’m not remembering everything. I think that with TSOTW in particular there was some confusion as to where it started and anything said about Dai’s climb was more to “set the record straight” than to impugn his character.
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I agree, I think the general feeling out there is just that is was ‘unfortunate’ that Dai missed the 2nd ascent due to having incorrect information. I would very much doubt there is anyone who has a negative opinion about his character because of it.
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