Via Kairn comes word that Lucas Ménégatti has done the first repeat of Vincent Pochon’s The Big Island, a potential V15 in Fontainebleau, France.
First opened back in 2008 by Dave Graham as The Island from a higher start seated on an adjacent boulder, The Big Island adds a couple of moves to The Island that are “not hard” but “just enough to make you pumped to get to the crux move” according to updates Ménégatti has been posting on his blog.
In previous days Ménégatti had come agonizingly close to sending, and in fact even today he had apparently just about given up before sending on the proverbial “last go”. He had this to say about the ascent on his 8a scorecard: “Very psyched! About the grade I’m not sure, time will tell.
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Fit my style perfectly.”
You can see footage of Graham’s FA of The Island here with footage of Pochon on the FA of The Big Island here.
Lucas Ménégatti on The Island during a previous session
Sick! Definitely one of the coolest problems ever!
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Looks sick for sure. Way to go! Can you help me understand the differences between these two problems? In the DG video he starts with his arm pushing off the pad on the rock, then puts both hands on. In the VP video it looks like the same holds(?) – he is just standing and not sitting/pushing off the boulder? Any other videos showing the start better?
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When Dave pulls off the ground to start The Island, his right hand is on the crimp rail and his left hand is on the left arete. The Big Island starts with the left hand on the crimp rail and the right on a lower hold on the right arete, then makes two moves to get to Dave’s starting position.
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I could be wrong, but I’m pretty sure the difference is where the right hand starts. On the island it’s on the crimp rail, and on the big island, it’s about a foot to the right, on a sloper. Because it’s a totally different body position though, it takes four moves from the Big island to get into the 2nd move of the island(where they’re paired up on the two opposing slopers right before the really big move out right.) So while they don’t overlap perfectly, it adds two extra hand moves.
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Got it! Sick!
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After watching the two videos and looking at this picture, the beta seems to be wearing five ten dragons.
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I beg to differ:
http://climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/ThirdAscentOfDaveGrahamsTheIslandV15_92EC/Island1.jpg
😉
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Crap, I was telling myself that to try and rationalize the thought of one day being able to do this climb…
touche
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