A funny thing happened earlier this week: Adam Ondra “finally” repeated Biographie1 in Céüse and barely anyone seemed to notice.
You’ll recall that his initial efforts to flash the route two years ago brought the climbing internet to a standstill as we got text and Facebook updates from people at the cliff. My how the times have changed though as it took until this morning for even one of the major climbing websites I follow to post about it. Then again, in the intervening two years Ondra has onsighted three 5.14ds and five 5.14cs, so maybe redpointing mere 5.
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15a isn’t that big a deal any more?
- AKA Realization AKA Biographie ↩
Man, Johnathan Siegrist’s send is really getting sh*t on….
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I definitely disagree – Biographie was J*’s first 9a+. Ondra has sent dozens of 9a+ and harder, and Alex Megos is known for intentionally not projecting routes and only trying what he thinks he can send in a short amount of time. Biographie was at Sharma’s limit when he put it up, and it was at Siegrist’s limit when he sent – hence both took many many tries over weeks and weeks.
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Not really
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@Griz, how? i don’t get it?
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It’s not that J*’s ascent of Biogrphie is not impressive or admirable , however after he put in so much time and effort dialing in his diet, training routine etc for this route it is unfortunate that the route saw two more quick sends within a short time period after Siegrist and therefore has slightly overshadowed his great accomplishment.
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Maybe only Megos and Ondra should climb and everyone else should pack it in and find a new sport? Jonathan Siegrist’s tremendous effort and stubborn dedication to send a route that’s near his limit makes his effort much more newsworthy and, as you said, admirable than the other two in my opinion.
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http://img2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20140209013353/creepypasta/images/a/a9/Don't_Feed_the_Troll.jpeg
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