Archive | February, 2014

Video Friday – 2/14/2014

Posted February 14, 2014 at 8:23 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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→ Man Makes History By Climbing 1,500-Foot El Sendero Luminoso With No Net∞

Posted February 12, 2014 at 7:46 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Not The Onion:

In January, Honnold made history by becoming the first person to ever scale El Sendero Luminoso (Mexico) without the help of other climbers or safety equipment. That’s right, one wrong move could have produced devastating results.

El Sendero Luminoso is rated at 5.
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12d on the Yosemite Decimal System, which means “the surface is as smooth as glass and vertical.” The scale only goes up to 5.13.

Oh?

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→ Steven Roth & Ethan Pringle Go Big∞

Posted February 11, 2014 at 8:01 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Alex Honnold’s boulder problem free solo Too Big To Flail, which was featured in 2012’s Reel Rock 7, has seen a lot of action of late.  First up was Lonnie Kauk who repeated the problem late last year, and then this past weekend Ethan Pringle and Stephen stepped and repeated the line as reported in this post by DPM:

Roth, a relatively unknown Berkeley college student who works at Touchstone Climbing, went first and, utilizing slightly different beta than Pringle, steadily cruised the line and was standing on top in disbelief in minutes. His movement was confident and precise, just like his prior burns on top rope, and his execution was flawless.

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Climbing Past My Pregnancy Stigma

Posted February 10, 2014 at 7:37 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Excellent first post in a series by Beth Rodden who is expecting her first child soon:

When I first found out I was pregnant, I did a ton of research to see what other climbers experienced, and didn’t find a lot out there. I want to help change this in the climbing community, to help make it an open discussion.
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If you research running while pregnant, the resources are endless from novice runners to professionals; but climbing while pregnant is a topic I couldn’t find much information about. I also want to share some of my personal inner worry and questioning as I think it’s something a lot of women go through, regardless of if they are climbers or not.
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It feels hard to open up about such a personal topic, but I know it would have helped me immensely if I had found a blog like this.
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Check out the rest of the series, including an interview with Lynn Hill, on Rodden’s blog.

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Video Friday – 2/7/2014

Posted February 7, 2014 at 7:50 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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→ Terje Haakonsen: Why I Still Hate The Olympics∞

Posted February 6, 2014 at 8:41 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Pro Snowboarder Terje Haakonsen is not a fan of the Olympics:

If anything I feel even more strongly about it today. When I was younger, I was just thinking about snowboarding, but now I see the bigger picture and the other stuff that goes on.
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The whole thing is corrupt – the IOC is run by a few people, when in reality it is something that should be owned by the whole world and to benefit sport, not just to make them money.
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Considering how much of a disaster the upcoming Sochi games are from a financial, humanitarian, animal welfare and even human hygiene perspective, maybe climbers should think twice about wanting to get our sport involved in the Olympic circus in the first place.

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→ The True Story of the Carderock Killing∞

Posted February 5, 2014 at 7:51 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Great reporting by Sid Balman, Jr.
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on the bizarre alleged murder that took place at Maryland’s Carderock at the end of 2012.  The piece does go off the rails a bit and the end, however:

There has been much soul-searching among Carderock climbers and more than a tiny bit of hand-wringing by national climbing groups concerned that this incident might somehow be interpreted as another sign that the heyday of traditional rock climbing, and the largesse of the industries that support it, may be drawing to a close.

I’m not sure how a story of a man with a history of drug abuse and mental instability allegedly killing another man reflects in any way on the state of climbing or the industry as a whole.

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