Archive | August, 2013

→ FFA Of Bellavista (5.14b) By Sasha DiGiuilian∞

Posted August 13, 2013 at 12:56 pm · Comments { 5 } ·

According to this post on her Instagram account, Sasaha DiGiulian has teamed up with Edu Marin to repeat Alex Huber’s multi-pitch route Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites:

After climbing through a big storm for the final pitches, and spending a bitter cold, wet night at the top of Tre Cime Oeste, I’m down and happy to report the First Female #Ascent of Bellavista, 8c, a 2-year dream of mine to climb!

Bellavista, which was first done in 2001, features several 5.12 pitches and one pitch of 5.14b and has seen relatively few repeats over the years.
buy vibramycin online https://rxnoprescriptionrxbuyonline.com/dir/vibramycin.html no prescription

∞ · Comments { 5 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }

→ Why Are So Many Climbers Not Wearing Helmets?∞

Posted August 12, 2013 at 10:19 am · Comments { 36 } ·

Long piece from the August issue of Climbing about why so few climbers wear helmets:

When it comes to helmets and climbers, inconsistency is everywhere. Most ice climbers and mountaineers wear helmets, as do many traditional rock climbers. But far fewer rock climbers don lids for short climbs, especially sport routes.

See also this piece on The Stone Mind about the dangers of sport climbing without a helmet and this piece on Mountains & Water about how wearing a helmet while bouldering might make more sense than you’d think.

∞ · Comments { 36 } · Climbers { 0 }
  1. No Climbers associated with this post
 · Areas { 0 }
  1. No Areas associated with this post
Video Friday – 8/9/2013

Video Friday – 8/9/2013

Posted August 9, 2013 at 7:12 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week…

Read full story · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 0 }
  1. No Climbers associated with this post
 · Areas { 0 }
  1. No Areas associated with this post

→ The Almighty∞

Posted August 8, 2013 at 2:08 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Jonathan Siegrist writes about his experience repeating a mixed route called The Almighty (5.14a) in Teton Canyon, WY that was first done by local Ty Mack in 2011:

This is one of my favorite ascents to date – I feel that it is my hardest trad lead and it was a really cool process to get there. Ty suggested .14a for The Almighty and I think personally I would suggest .14b for the short person method through the lower and upper cruxes. Because of size we really did climb the route entirely different.
buy cipro online https://rxbuywithoutprescriptiononline.com/dir/cipro.html no prescription

Ty’s effort here isreally sick, and I want to make a point to congratulate him again for his efforts opening The Almighty — there really is nothing else like it!

It’s always cool to read these stories of off the radar routes established by off the radar bone crushers.

∞ · Comments { 1 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }

→ Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2013 Climbing Report∞

Posted August 8, 2013 at 9:51 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice recap over at Splitter Choss of  the latest and greatest in climbing gear that was unveiled at last week’s Outdoor Retailer Trade Show.
buy plavix online blackmenheal.org/wp-content/languages/new/plavix.html no prescription

 The Millet Opposite rope looks interesting, and you know I’m a sucker for Five Ten bringing back old shoes. Now if only they would bring back the  V10s…

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 0 }
  1. No Climbers associated with this post
 · Areas { 0 }
  1. No Areas associated with this post

→ Two V13s In Rocklands By Anna Stöhr∞

Posted August 7, 2013 at 12:01 pm · Comments { 4 } ·

Impressive trip to Rocklands for Anna Stöhr as she repeats The Power Of One (V13) and The Vice (V13):

Once again, Anna has broken through the glass ceiling and set a new precedent for female bouldering, by sending these two lines, needing only three days to crack, The Power of One, and four for, The Vice. Hats off to Anna for raising the bar one notch higher!

Not bad to go along with her six bouldering World Cup victories so far this year.

∞ · Comments { 4 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }

→ Another 5.15 In Flatanger For Adam Ondra∞

Posted August 7, 2013 at 9:49 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Adam Ondra continues to use the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway as his personal 5.15 playground, this time with the FA of Iron Curtain (5.15b).  Lest you think 5.15b has become “easy” for him, he assures PlanetMountain that this is not the case:

9b (5.15b) standard for me? I wish! No, 9b is still a really hard route, certainly not something I would do in an afternoon without too much effort.

According to the same article, Ondra has multiple 5.15+ projects lined up and ready including one that is almost 200 feet long!

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }