Archive | April, 2013

→ 5.14c FA By Dan Mirsky At The Cathedral∞

Posted April 16, 2013 at 5:16 pm · Comments { 7 } ·

DPM interviews Dan Mirsky after he did the FA of Solid Gold, a proposed 5.14c in Utah’s Cathedral:

So basically, Solid Gold is the most straight up way to climb the main awesome cave feature which is how it avoids all the rests and possibly makes it the hardest iteration of Golden. The style of the route is total power endurance; basically bouldery sequences with marginal rests the whole way starting with the one leaving Space Shuttle and culminating with the crux of Golden, an amazing sequence of spraggle pockets and tufa pinches on some of the best limestone I have touched. It is in my opinion the coolest crux sequence I have ever done.
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V14 FA In Switzerland By Jimmy Webb

→ V14 FA In Switzerland By Jimmy Webb∞

Posted April 16, 2013 at 9:07 am · Comments { 0 } · Photo: Jimmy Webb on La Rustica

Jimmy Webb closed out his Swiss trip in fine style by doing the FA of La Rustica, a potential V14 in Valle Bavona:

One of the coolest projects i’ve ever climbed. Big thanks to Carlo for showing me this thing. Climbed it basically on my last day, last literal try.
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Couldn’t ask for a better finish to my trip.

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→ 2nd Ascent Of The Insurgency (V14) By Paul Robinson∞

Posted April 16, 2013 at 7:07 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Paul Robinson had a nice trip to Joe’s Valley last week, repeating a couple of V13s and doing the 2nd ascent of James Litz’s The Insurgency (V14).

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→ Bügeleisen∞

Posted April 15, 2013 at 8:46 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Nalle Hukkataival, blogging about his repeat of a V14 in Maltatal called Bügeleisen which was first done in 2001 by Klem Loskot:

Bügeleisen really is one of the BEST hard boulders in the world and that’s why I was pretty bummed that climbing such a great problem had to turn into an unenjoyable battle with other elements. Nevertheless, hats off for Klem Loskot for opening such an amazing boulder back in 2001!
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Video Friday – 4/12/2013

Video Friday – 4/12/2013

Posted April 12, 2013 at 7:39 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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V13 Flash In Font By James Kassay

Posted April 11, 2013 at 8:36 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Aussie James Kassay has flashed Dave Graham’s Sideways Daze (V13) in Fontainebleau, France.  This is the 2nd V13 (or harder) flash in the forest after Adam Ondra flashed Gecko Assis back in 2011.  You can see footage of Kassay’s flash here.

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Rib Mountain Access

Posted April 10, 2013 at 10:24 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Great news for boulderers in my home state:

On January 11, 2013, the ERD determined that bouldering was feasible, and DNR will now allow bouldering at Rib Mountain State Park with crashpads and chalk. However roped climbing and fixed gear are still prohibited in the quarry.

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