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The hits just keep coming for Carlo Traversi as he has done the 5th1 ascent of Dave Graham’s The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland. This send comes shortly after Traversi repeated Meadowlark Lemon (V15) in Red Rocks back in February.
- Or maybe 6th depending on how many times you count Dai Koyamada sending this problem or some variation thereof ↩
Nice Carlo!
Wondering what you think about this, Narc (et al): So, TSOTW went unrepeated for a long while and then saw a 2nd ascent. Then, shortly thereafter 3rd, 4th, 5th ascents, all in a much more rapid timeframe. Oliphants Dawn seems like similar case, although TSOTW is less obscure and potentially more coveted. Trice is probably a better example. Maybe Jade too? Obviously, there are more cases and sport climbing/trad analogies to be made (though I’m hazier in my knowledge of those styles). Is this a matter of some sort of progression or is it popularity or beta becoming available? Could it be a mentality that the ascent is within closer reach, especially since a lot of these guys are friends/know each other, and its like “oh if he can do it, I know I can”?
The project/first ascent barrier seems more obvious to me, as knowing whether something is possible can really affect ones mentality. But, once somethings been done, I wonder why the second ascent can sometimes open a floodgate for further sends.
I should be clear that this isn’t intended for a grade discussion, but rather I’m trying to address a phenomenon that seems somewhat evident, but for me has an undefined basis.
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Trice is probably a bad example – most repeaters use a pocket for a foot that Holloway allegedly skipped. The only person I’ve heard of doing the line without that foot was Nicole. That said, Holloway was also really tall.
8a has had this already spiral into a grades debate, and PRob is just adding fuel to the fire when he showed up and claimed that his perception of the difficulties is: Dave’s Start < Dai's Low Start < PRob\Carlo start. There's even debate going about how P Rob and Carlo use the same 2 hands and 2 feet to start, but Paul did a crouch start and Carlo was actually sitting.
5/6 Sends, does that mean this thing is B1 yet?
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Sweet work Carlo! Also, I would hardly consider five or six ascents in that time frame at an area where it seems all the strongest climbers annually frequent is too surprising, especially considering Dave Graham made such a statement with it. What would be interesting would be to know how many strong climbers have NOT done this one, but tried. This really shows that Carlo is one of the best boulderers out there IMO.
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ClimbingNarc vs DPM coverage of this story: Interesting, calm, and civil comments about repeating hard problems vs. overtly racist comments about Dai and Japanese people (seriously: look at the DPM comments).
Thanks to the Narc for making an intelligent and civil place to track climbing news!
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