Alex Megos, in an email to sponsor DMM, with some details on his onsight of Estado crítico (5.14d):
In that moment I didn’t think about having done something really outstanding. But after the send somebody asked me if this was the first 9a onsight and I said I don’t know and started to think about it.
The article goes on to mention that Megos generally only tries something three times before moving on. Clearly this works pretty well for him, what with him climbing over 100 routes and boulders 8a or harder during his recent U.
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S. trip and now this 5.14d onsight.
I was tempted to make some sort of joke about how I also only have a three try limit, but the reality is that if I don’t do something within the first two tries I’ll probably never do it…
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but that doesn’t keep me from trying.
Are these three ground-up tries? Or does he fall, work moves, lower off, and then go again?
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I would assume the latter. It is 2013 after all.
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It’s probably not a bad strategy for training. It would sure save people from a lot of strains and injuries from repetitive movements or over exertion. At the same time, some of my favorite problems took me months and hundreds of attempts to figure out.
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