Archive | January, 2013

Daniel Woods Takes Down Longterm Project…In The Gym

Indoor climbing doesn’t matter, right?  Sure, people get psyched about comps, but nobody cares about when someone sends a regular problem set at the gym, right?
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 Right?  Well, maybe not.

A couple of nights ago Daniel Woods climbed a longstanding project at the CATS training facility in Boulder, CO.  CATS is a bit unique in that problems are set and then left on the wall for years, allowing climbers time to project something long-term.  The so-called Bubbble Wrap project was one such problem at CATS that had rebuffed efforts by some of the world’s best boulderers over the past five years until Woods was able to climb it the other night1.

Like I said, indoor sends are not normally a big deal, but a funny thing happened after Woods’ send.  James O’Connor posted a video of the send that generated a lot of activity on Facebook and racked up over 10,000 views in the first 24 hours it was online.  Does this mean indoor sends now somehow “matter” in the grand scheme of things2?  I doubt it—I’m inclined to agree with Jamie Emerson’s thoughts on the issue—but it’s clear that this sort of thing does resonate strongly with many of us on some level.

I know I’m that much more psyched to get into the gym this weekend to pull down3.

  1. I can’t say for sure, but it seems likely that Woods put more work into climbing this problem than just about anything he’s climbed outside.
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     Think about that for a second.
  2.  Ignoring any arguments that climbing itself doesn’t matter
  3.  But I’d still rather be climbing outside
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Climberism Interviews Jimmy Webb

Interesting interview with Jimmy Webb by Climberism covering Webb’s recent trip to the Northeast that saw him flash a V13 among other things:

You know, I have never really seen myself as “in the spotlight.”  I’m a small-town climber and when it comes to the southeast we are so far outside of the “climbing bubble.” Everyone kind of has this “who gives a shit” attitude and I love it.  I have always been very integrated in to the community here and the people will keep you in check.
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Peñoles

Nalle Hukkataival writing about a recent trip he took to Peñoles, Mexico:

The massive potential was hard not to notice straight away. Just within minutes of walking from our camp there are great problems like El Baca Loca (V13), Lado Activo del Infito (V14) and El Fantasmo Hambiento (V12). And now on top of that my first ascents; ZugzwangEl Infierno,101El Señor de los Cielos and Blood and Sand. And that’s just what’s right next to the camp.
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Check out the post for the full story and pictures, and then watch this trailer to whet your appetite for more media from Peñoles.

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Video Friday – 1/25/2013

Video Friday – 1/25/2013

The highest rated videos of the past week, including two great features on Tommy Caldwell

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Fire In Rocklands

Via 8a comes the disturbing news that a fire has raged through the area in South Africa which includes Rocklands:

Over the course of the next eight days the fire spread slowly and eventually made its way past Heuningvlei, into the Rocklands area.  The fire swept through the climbing zone, where it is still burning in places, devastating vegetation throughout the reserve.
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  A strong south-westerly wind, however, pushed this inferno back into the Agter Pakhuis valley

The fire is apparently mostly out now, but already one fatality has been confirmed in addition to unknown amounts of damage to structures, wildlife and of course the boulders people come from all over the world to climb on.

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Turkey Part 2

Turkey Part 2

Some details on travelling in Antalya and climbing at Geyikbayiri and Olympos

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Reel Rock TV Series Coming To Outside TV

Reel Rock TV Series Coming To Outside TV

The hits just keep coming for the guys at Sender Films and Big Up Productions.

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