If you “train” more than you do your sport then you’re probably confusing the reasons you train. Which is OK; “training” can be a sport.
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Crossfit is a sport in my mind, and I respect those athletes because they train with meaning and intensity and then (mostly) leave that in the gym.
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But there’s some dissonance between thinking you’re training for a sport and then never actually doing the sport you’re training for.
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Sound like anyone you know?
Doyou train to race or race in training?
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See… I train in a gym 4-5 days a week year round. I usually only go outside once every couple of months.. I also live in Oklahoma and have spent some seasons going outside 2-3 days a week, to the somewhat limited climbing Oklahoma has to offer. But even though I consider every gym visit training for the outdoors, I also consider it a part of climbing. I love climbing.. In a gym, on a boulder, on a cliff, climbing trees, the backside of staircases, and buildings. I love the feel of the movement and the I love problem solving, the community, getting up high, the endorphins I feel when I climb, doing really hard moves, seeing growth in my personal ability and strength, and feeling like a badass. I consider climbing in a gym training.. but I also love it. Although I climb way more indoors than outside, and I am always thinking of how climbing indoors will help me send outdoors, I don’t think personally there is anything wrong with my regime.
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When Gadd refers to the Gym – I think he means weightlifting/cardio traditional “gym; not a climbing gym. I’m pretty sure he would count climbing at a climbing gym as “do”ing your sport, especially the way you describe how you climb at your rock gym. Hyper fit communities like Boulder filled with tons of type A people, tend to develop this snotty “you’re not as fit/as much of a bad ass as me” attitude. I think Gadd was just reacting to that attitude and remind people to lighten up a bit and go climb something.
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@Adam: You should know by now that if you’re a climber, no matter what you do, it’s wrong, and it makes you a poseur, a fake climber. You’re too skinny, or you train too much, or you don’t lead on gear, or you bring your dog to the crag/don’t bring your dog to the crag, or you’re on the Internet, etc etc etc. So remember, you’re just a recreational hiker who sometimes likes to unstylishly take the hardway up some rocks–and almost every *real* climber will try to remind you of this.
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Entertaining rant, but I can’t say I know any compulsive campus/hang-boarders. Most use the “just climb” approach to improvement.
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This is why I believe that Chris Sharma’s way of climbing would be much more fun. Sadly we all can’t move to Spain to climb 5.15b in our backyard… Therefore climbing in the gym seems to have become one with climbing outside. I believe that climbing in the gym is doing your sport because, be it gym, rock, staircase, chimney, you are still CLIMBING. I get the same feeling doing V7 in the gym that I do warming up on 5.9 outdoors. It’s climbing, training is more on the work side of things in my opinion… but then again a wise man once said “If you love what you do, you never work a day in your life.”
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