Climbing Violations In Joshua Tree

Posted September 19, 2012 at 9:06 am · Comments { 13 } ·

Not cool:

A subsequent Park Service investigation of The Underground Chasm discovered hundreds of illegally placed bolts, fixed rope, burnt Joshua Trees, stashed camping and climbing gear, chipped steps and damage to other nearby trees and plants—all misdemeanors individually punishable by a mandatory court appearance and $5,000 fine.

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13 Responses to Climbing Violations In Joshua Tree

  1. Philly Cheese September 19, 2012 at 9:45 am #

    …burnt Joshua trees…hundreds of illegally placed bolts?! I am angry!!!

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  2. Dave September 19, 2012 at 10:53 am #

    This is all pretty old news that’s been getting recycled with the AF release. The perp is known, but no one witnessed it so there’s no proof.

    Regarding ‘illegally placed bolts’ the park service has taken the view that every bolt placed in Josh since like 1992 is illegal. Not really much of a crime if you need a bolting permit to place a bolt, and there is no process for getting a permit.

    Most of the bad acts were done by one individual. It is unfortunate that he made the rest of us look bad.

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    • Dan September 19, 2012 at 11:18 am #

      No process for getting a permit? Are you sure about that? It seems like the Access Fund would have something to say about that, if it were the case. I was also able to find a permit application online with about 12 seconds of Googling.

      Bolting aside, you have to be a complete moron to build a fire where it’s going to leave an ugly scar on a boulder like that. Pure selfishness.

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      • Dave September 19, 2012 at 12:29 pm #

        There is a process for getting a permit to replace old bolts. I think one or two guys have them.

        There is not (or hasn’t at least, that may change) a permit process for ‘bolting in wilderness.’ Most of the park is wilderness.

        I hiked out there last year to check it out, as it was in the new guidebook. I couldn’t believe the mess that was made. The worst by far was the ladder drilled into the rock, like 5 steps. I think the guidebook author screwed up big time by including that area.

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  3. Dan September 19, 2012 at 10:54 am #

    I seriously don’t understand how people can think its OK to do this stuff.

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    • Phunk September 19, 2012 at 11:27 am #

      Some men just want to watch the world burn.

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  4. Eric Reeves September 21, 2012 at 4:16 pm #

    This really does soil the reputation for everyone in the sport. I spend most of the time at Hueco climbing and there are more and more areas getting closed. I had a friend that used to drive out to Hueco everyday after work just to go climb Center El Murray before the park closed. It is a shame that I didn’t make it out before Mushroom boulder was closed. Yet, I still see people doing those problems and ticking them on 8a or putting videos up. Even today I had a kid tell me he went out to Hueco after dark and climbed. It is the complete disregard for rules that makes our access diminish. I am not saying that we all must be saints, but were not skateboarders (nothing personal) that have bred a culture that thrives on mischief.

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  5. John Yuppie September 22, 2012 at 10:54 pm #

    Eric, there is a lot of rock out there and your concerned about some bull shit in Texas?
    And what makes you think that anybody gives a shit about climbers other than climbers? guarantee it was a climber who blew the whistle on this in the first place.
    Pull your head out of your ass pal, you are the problem.

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    • texasclimber September 25, 2012 at 1:15 pm #

      yea, hueco is choss anyways

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  6. Jared September 24, 2012 at 5:13 pm #

    Eric,
    Sorry Hueco shut you down. Texas climbing isn’t for everyone. Don’t take it out on Eric, he’s just trying to help.

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    • Eric Reeves September 24, 2012 at 5:56 pm #

      Jared,

      I appreciate it. I actually am from Texas and love the style of climbing. (although Hueco is a lot different from our typical limestone) I was actually one of the climbers on your website when you first started. It was a picture of me at Summit in Grapevine at one of the ABS Comps. It’s great to see that Motivation Volumes picked up so well.

      Eric

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  7. Jared September 25, 2012 at 8:07 am #

    Opps, that was intended for John. haha. Thanks for the kind words Eric. Cheers,

    Jared

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