Friday is here once again, but today is no ordinary Friday.
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Today is the first Friday in Sendtember as well as the lead-in to a glorious 3 day holiday weekend. Things should be all good, right? Well, I have a bit of a confession to make.
Make sure you’re sitting down for this one…
I think I might be losing my mojo for climbing.
There, I said it. Shhh. Don’ tell anyone, ok?
Now, before you question my sanity, here’s what I mean.
After a fantastic first half of 2011 where everything about climbing seemed good again I made the mistake of taking a non-climbing vacation* for almost 3 weeks in July. Upon my return, I promptly injured myself and took another 3 weeks off.
Something strange happened over those 6 weeks, namely that I got used to not climbing. I got really used to it in fact. I got used to not driving 45 minutes each way to the gym. I got used to not driving 2 hours each way to the nearest crag. I got used to not driving 8 hours each way to the preferred weekend destination. I got used to watching Netflix 3 hours a night. Most importantly, I got used to not worrying about stressing my creaking joints.
So, to say that my rehab sessions these past few weeks have been uninspiring would be an understatement. I’m not sure there is anything more boring than toproping routes well below your limit, but fortunately the perfect antidote to my current malaise is on the horizon.
Fall.
This weekend we get our first dose of high temps in the 60s and I plan to take full advantage. If the fall climbing season can’t cure me of this terrible sickness, I don’t know what can.
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Wish me luck…
Video Friday
With that out of the way, here is a slate of excellent videos to get you psyched for whatever you’re doing this weekend (let me know if you’re going somewhere in the comments). Don’t forget to check out the videos page throughout the week to browse all the videos. Now you can filter videos by discipline (bouldering, sport, trad) so there should be something for everyone.
[starrating template_id=50 rows=7 select=’videos’ excerpt_words=0 publish_date=’range’ publish_range_from=’20110826′ publish_range_to=’20110902′ min_votes=5]*never again
I know the perfect cure for you sickness. a new routine, and new experiences at other crags. you need to climb only for fun and not for performance.
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No shame in getting in done Top Rope. I’m probably on the same boat this weekend after recovering from a sprained ankle climbing last week. I just moved to Boulder, CO and it’s killing me not to climb everyday while I look for work! I’m thinking Clear Creek Canyon and possible Eldorado Canyon for some sport climbing this weekend….
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Nice! Hope you are enjoying your first days in the Bubble 🙂 Hopefully your ankle will be better soon.
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Climbed on some of those very same Squamish problems last week (well the sub-V5 ones). So, planning on doing some local CO Front Range cragging this weekend. Definitely psyched for the upcoming films (Scene, Reel Rock), too!
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Last year I moved from being 5 minutes from a gym to 25 minutes from a gym . . . or 40 during rush hour. Definitely not 45, but still took it’s toll. I also had a nagging lower pack injury that made climbing miserable 1/2 the time anyway. My psych dropped a ton.
I haven’t been following this blog long, so I don’t know if you already have a big training setup (wouldn’t surprise me). My personal remedy was putting in a lot of time and effort in building a really nice campus board in my apartment. All of the excitement of seeing my calculations, measurements, cutting and drilling come together got me really excited to train. Even just getting the box in the mail of campus rungs was awesome. I chilled on climbing at the gym (down to 1 or 2 days a week but pretty much only on the weekends) and started training a lot more. Surprisingly, a few minor but lingering finger injuries went away within a month, my skin was no longer constantly a disaster from so much chalk and I was getting stronger.
When I did get to go outside I was way more psyched to see what the training had done and I never felt burned out on climbing or frustrated with injuries like before.
So, if you can get a setup that saves you 1.5 hours of driving to/from the gym and you are excited to train, give that a try, it really helped me grow as a climber and keep the energy and drive for pushing it on real rock.
Aaron
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I actually have a campus board but have barely used it. Partially because it’s dangerous for me and partially because when I rebuilt it in our new house I did a poor job setting it up properly. Sources close to me tell me that Mrs. Narc might be interested in having a wall built in our basement but it might just be easier to move closer to climbing since I work with a computer all day and not a table saw.
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Get that mojo back, Narc! This is the font, the wellspring of climbing obsession. We can’t make it without you!
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I spent 3 hours at dinner last night talking about climbing much to the chagrin of Mrs. Narc and my friend’s girlfriend so all is not lost…
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I have had the EXACT same problem! But mine was caused by summer-itis… it was just too damned hot to really care about anything, but now that the temps here are FINALLY down to the 90’s, the world is my oyster =)
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That certainly isn’t helping around here either. Summer malaise has definitely happened in years past so who knows, maybe a drop in temperature is all I need.
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Yo Narc! I know how you feel man. Injuries and downtime will dull the passion. But the minute I step back onto the rock, may it be a route I’ve climbed many times in the past or some fresh route I have never even laid eyes on before, it all comes back.
I’m with Guy up there, make sure you enjoy the movement…its all that really matters!
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A chronic cycle of injuries incurred from one activity has a couple possible solutions:
1. Cross-train to help balance your body and break the cycle of movement/stress the keeps creating injuries.
2. Realize that what your heart loves your body does not and decide what’s more important, your health and happiness or continuing to pursue said activity.
3. Choose a new sport.
4. Seek training and nutrition advice as it’s possible for deficiency in these areas to contribute to the susceptibility of an injury.
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take a few months off and im sure youll be more than enthused to return to climbing!
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Not gonna be a well received possible post…why don’t you take up…climbing? What I mean is, clearly you’re obsessed with hard bouldering and to some extent sport climbing. But climbing can (obviously) be so much more. So many amazing ways (routes) to enjoy getting vertical that don’t involve massive crimp strength, or other injury provoking moves. I realize you don’t exactly live in a “moderate” climbing mecca. But I know you’ve taken some trad climbing trips to Yosemite, etc, and I know you know what’s out there. If you really like climbing for the sake of climbing, and not just pushing grades, just remember there’s a ton out there to be done, that isn’t so injury intensive. I just did something horrendous to my right middle finger pulling plastic about 3-4 weeks ago. Still hurts quite a bit. But managed to finally do the whole Matthes Crest traverse last weekend (continuing for the full thing past the North summit), after doing some other good moderate ridge routes the weekend before, and it’s kept me sane.
I guess what I’m saying is, you probably will never be able to compete with 20 year olds with crazy tendon genetics, but that doesn’t mean you can’t do lots of “climbing”. Do some soul searching about the sport, and consider the alternatives. Best of luck to you though either way, and thanks for running the site.
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Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions everybody. The psych will return, I know it!!
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