After a nice trip to Sweden Daniel Woods made his way to Austria and got to work on a couple of Bernd Zangerl testpieces in the mountains of Silvretta. In short order Woods managed to repeat both Memento (7th ascent) and Anam Cara (4th ascent) suggesting V13 for the former and V14 for the latter. If I’m not mistaken Zangerl had suggested upwards of V16 for both problems after their respective FAs although problems featuring a dyno like that in Memento are notoriously hard to grade.
Here are a few videos of the two problems to give you a better idea what they look like:
Bernd Zangerl on Memento
Bernhard Schwaiger climbing Anam Cara
Korni Obleitner climbing Anam Cara
In registering the ascents on his 8a scorecard Woods had this to say about Memento:
1 day asc. Really nice climbing (pretty much a ladder of incut crimps) to a freak dyno move. This one is hard to grade since it all comes down to the jump. At first it felt impossible, then you find the trick and can do it on command. Thanks to Bernd Zangerl for opening up this amazing area and establishing this and Anam Cara.
About Anam Cara he had this to say:
4th asc. tried 2 days ago and came close, but with todays exceptional weather… the boulder went fast. An amazing pitbull of a problem with 4 intense moves revolving around a heinous undercling. The Fall season has begun
While the grades of problems like these are always up for debate, I think it is important to give credit to Zangerl for the vision to open these difficult lines in the first place. And not to get debate/Jens on everyone, but since the percentage of proposed V16s to get downgraded is basically 100% shouldn’t any future suggestions of such a grade be taken with a huge grain of salt?
Update: Woods’ wife Courtney Sanders was also doing work at Silvretta completing her first V11 Niviuk