I mentioned in last week’s Video Friday post how I had spent the prior 2.5 weeks traveling around Italy with Mrs.
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Narc. Word on the street has it that Italy is a pretty good destination for climbing, but our trip was 100% focused on your more typical tourist activities.
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You can imagine my excitement then when we arrived home and I set out to the climbing gym for the first time in nearly a month.
Obviously I was psyched to be pulling down again, but I knew I needed to be careful and planned on making it a very brief session. As I worked through my warm-up I could tell my fingers were a bit stiff from only gripping wine glasses for 3 weeks, so I reminded myself again to be careful. After spending a good 20 minutes chatting with a fan from Portland I returned to the bouldering cave to finish up the session by trying something just a touch harder to see where I was at.
I pulled on the wall and reached up right for the first hold, a decent pinch jug. As I was pulling on that hold I started to notice an unpleasant feeling in my middle finger. My left hand made it to the next hold, a crimpy jug, when I started to notice some unpleasant feelings in the middle finger of that hand as well. At that point I hit the eject button, but the damage had been done. Severe pain in my right middle finger and mild pain in the same finger of my left hand.
Ultimate. Devastation.
Up to this point 2011 had been the most successful year of my injury-plagued climbing career. Over the course of many, many fun days at the crag I had managed to climb a handful of boulder problems at or above my previous limits and ticked off a sport route that felt like the hardest thing I’d ever done. With the fall season fast approaching I was looking forward to investing some real effort* into a project here in Wisconsin, but I guess that’s just going to have to wait…
Now that we have my sob story out of the way let’s watch some videos:
[starrating template_id=50 rows=5 select=’videos’ excerpt_words=0 publish_date=’range’ publish_range_from=’20110722′ publish_range_to=’20110729′ min_votes=1]*I noticed the other week that of the 60 or so harder boulder problems I’ve ever done, only 3 have taken me more than 1 day of work with the longest taking something like 3 days. I blame this partially on the distance between myself and many of the boulder problems I’d like to project, but I think it probably says something about my commitment toward working things as well…
Narc,
Does your post suggest an injury or just temporary discomfort? If it is an injury, what will be your way of rehabing back to full recovery? I would like to know because my left middle finger (top middle part distal from the finger tip) has been injured since December. I did RICE my finger but since it wasn’t getting any better I decided to climb with it.
I can’t crimp that well, but I’ve never been a fan of crimping anyway. Hope you recover sooner than you think!
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Definite injury. Sounds pretty much the same as yours actually. I normally try to climb through things but this one is pretty painful. I’m going to give it a couple weeks of RICE and reevaluate from there.
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Kind of odd . . . a jug pinch does not seem like the type of hold to cause an injury. All my finger injuries have been from crimping hard on very small holds, and I’m always kicking myself afterward for not just moving on to a different problem.
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I agree which is why it was so odd. I’m probably describing the hold poorly, but it was a bit shallow so my fingers had to bend into a crimp position just a little bit as I pinched the hold and it was like my fingers had forgotten how to bend properly. I feel old…
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Definite injury. Sounds pretty much the same as yours actually. I normally try to climb through things but this one is pretty painful. I’m going to give it a couple weeks of RICE and reevaluate from there.
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Check out this very informational site: http://www.climbinginjuries.com
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Check out this very informational site: http://www.climbinginjuries.com
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http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/resources/askdrj/
His advice for medial epicondylosis was by far the most thorough and applicable interpretation for climbers elbow, golfers elbow, etc I’ve come across and within days I’m feeling better after 2mo of straight rest and 2mo of light rehab without dramatic improvement.
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Terrible news Mr. Narc!
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Dude. Your body just doesn’t want you to be a boulderer. I know you also climb routes, but in the end it comes down to motivation. Are you able to get psyched on route climbing? If so, switch focus to this. You’ll encounter gentler moves and maybe this will be enough to keep you climbing into the long term?
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That has definitely crossed my mind many times over the years. I certainly enjoy sport climbing well enough although bouldering has always been my favorite type of climbing.
The main problems with giving up bouldering are twofold for me: 1) Climbing on a rope indoors gets boring pretty quick. The walls in our gym are only 35 ft. tall and the routes tend to max out in difficulty in the 5.12 range. This is actually plenty hard for me, but trying to lead any of the harder routes becomes more an exercise in figuring out how to let go in order to clip every other move rather than a practice in hard climbing. 2) The nearest quality sport climbing area is a 500 mile drive and the nearest quality bouldering area is a 125 mile drive. It’s hard to get psyched to get really fit for sport climbing when I do it outdoors only a handful of times each year.
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Move to Vegas
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It seems as though I did something to my A4 pulley. It’s still sore, but it is slowly starting to feel better. I’d like for some of the outward soreness (it hurts when I bump my hand into things) before I think about climbing again.
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Sorry, I’m really bad with names! It was great to meet you Phil, even if the experience was marred by my injuring myself minutes after. In fact, I think we even discussed how good I had been doing on the injury front. Oops 🙂
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