After dispatching with the Orgeon testpiece Just Do It Jonathan Siegrist moved north to Washington on the search for more hard sport routes. His first stop was Little Si just east of Seattle to have a look at an undone extension to Erik Kubiak’s Whore Of Babylon (5.14b). Siegrist describes the line like this:
After climbing through the majority of this mega line (Whore of Babylon), you break left to join ‘Lost Horizons’ 14a/b at a decent rest just before it’s ~23 move continuous crux, finishing with 35 feet of 12- climbing to the top of this huge wall. I have to lower twice with my 80 meter rope.
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It’s pumpy, massive and of super high quality. I’m very stoked on this rig.
After a few days of work he managed to clip the chains on this 150 ft. pitch calling the line New World Order and suggesting a grade of 5.14c:
I finished the route this past Tuesday, it was my third day on the route, and my fifth try total. I finished off the day by doing ‘Lost Horizons’ for reference.
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Originally I presumed that the route could be 9a, but after finishing the climb so quickly I’ve settled with solid 14c. I’m calling the route ‘New World Order‘. An amazing climb and an endurance test-piece to rival most anything at the Red… come and get it!!!!
Before heading back to Boulder Seigrist cleaned up one more project, this time at Equinox, with his FA of an extension to Black Magic (5.13a) which he’s named Voodoo and suggested a grade of 5.14b. According to Siegrist the route, “features powerful moves on thin holds highlighted by a truly incredible finishing boulder problem, and offers essentially no opportunities for rest”.
Siegrist is now back in Boulder before heading to Lander, WY for the 18th International Climbers’ Festival July 6-10 where he will be the featured speaker. If you’ve never been to the ICF, what are you waiting for??