I don’t remember where it was I saw this but a few weeks back someone shared this link to an interesting blog post that went through a few days from John Bachar’s training journals:
It’s not uncommon to hear climbers snicker at the very idea of training, believing that all they need to do to improve is climb harder, more often. Chris Sharma would be a shining example of this theory. John Bachar trained and climbed extremely hard-sometimes on the same day-and the results are why Bachar, who died climbing in the summer of 2009, is considered one of the best climbers the sport has ever known.
I’ve chosen the entry from Saturday April 18, 1987 as an example of a typical Bachar training session. This type of workout, with some variations, was performed year round whether he was in Spain, L.A, Vegas or as on this spring day, Yosemite Valley. It would seem that he used dumbbells, barbells and some homemade machines for general and antagonist strength development. He would supplement this with sport-specific exercises such as fingerboard hangs, Bachar ladder, Goliath (systems climbing wall) and pull-ups-lots of pull ups. I copied this workout in as much detail as possible using Bachar’s ratings, abbreviations and punctuation so some interpretation is required.
As noted by Peter Beal in this post about the Vail World Cup, structured training isn’t something we hear a lot about these days from top climbers which is part of the reason I found the brief glimpse into Bachar’s world interesting. You can read the full post by clicking here.