On a recent visit stateside to check out schools, Ty Landman made a visit to Rhode Island’s Lincold Woods to try out a reportedly very difficult undone sitstart to an old Matt Wilder boulder problem. In conjunction with Phil Schaal, Landman worked out a 4 move sequence on hideously sharp holds that were “tortuous to climb on” with success coming on his 3rd day of attempts.
Given the painful nature of the climb, Landman named it after the somewhat more painful sounding Chealsea Smile and gave it a grade of hard V13:
As to its difficulty , it’s hard to say as I am not in the best shape I’ve ever been in. At first I thought it was hard 8B but I am starting to think it may be harder. Especially with the way grades are inflating today. I am reluctant to call it 8B+ because in isolation the holds aren’t rediculous and the moves aren’t outrageous. However, the psychological challenges that this problem as a whole presents, are major, and I think that any normal human being will struggle, due to the rock’s fierce nature. Who knows? But, for those who dare, the nightmare’s right there…
Look for footage of the ascent soon at Phil Schaal’s blog.