When I was a kid, one of the games we played on the classic Apple IIe computers was Where In The World Is Carmen Sandiego. The basic gist of the game was that adults were tricking us into learning geography while we tried to arrest the evil Carmen Sandiego. In a lot of ways, I feel the same way nowadays trying to track the progress of everyone’s favorite climber, Chris Sharma.
This month finds Sharma in England for a lecture tour, and this past weekend he made it out to Malham Cove to try one of England’s hardest sport routes, Rainshadow (5.14+?). Rainshadow is an unrepeated extension to the existing route Raindogs (5.13b) that was first climbed by Steve McClure back in 2007. From Climbing.com’s story about McClure’s FA, here is a description of both routes:
First climbed in 1986 by Dave Kenyon Raindogs featured a “visionary” lunge for the just-out-of-reach anchor chain — the crux of the route and the scene of many failures. Mark Leach first tried the obvious extension in the late 1980s, when climbers bolted numerous outrageous Malham lines (most still unclimbed).
The business of Rainshadow — which McClure finally linked on June 18 after 17 days of work spread over two years — first requires climbing Raindogs without grabbing the chain or getting too pumped. A poor rest by the anchors leads to an extremely bouldery (V11/12) crux bulge on pinches and crimps, leading directly into a technical 5.13b/c wall, then a final 25 feet of big moves on undercuts, which stopped McClure several times only inches from the top. After 100 feet the route finally comes to its logical end at a no-hands rest.
Sharma onsighted Raindogs and made good progress on the extension. Reportedly he is psyched to come back to try to finish it off. You can read the full report at the Climbing Work’s blog.
Oh that was a good game. Do you remember the TV show??
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Of course. Who doesn’t love them some Rock-a-pella?
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oh I definitely forgot about the Rock-a-pella. so good.
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Jeez, I thought I heard wild rumors of him going to the Hueco Rock Rodeo. I havent seen any results anywhere online. Who competed and who won? You think the results would be somewhere (hint, hint). 😉
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Negative. I’m not sure what I’ve been waiting for on the HRR results. Standbye.
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So it’s my understanding the last move on Raindogs is actually “lunging” for the chains themselves as the end hold………. strange.
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indeed, that is very bizarre!
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The lunge is the soft option (i.e. poor style) – its perfectly clippable from reasonable holds.
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It’s kind of funny that lunging for the chains was ever an option. I don’t believe I’ve heard of that sort of thing before. Must be an interesting story to hear why/how it was bolted that way.
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It was 1986. We were young and the “rules” hadn’t been written yet.
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i’m kinda hoping one of chris’ new routes will feature a metal keg hanging from a bolt that you have to jump to, wrestle, then move off of… like at a spot comp.
visionary. THE FUTURE.
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In regards to lunging for the chains. I think there is a pitch on the Grand Wall in Squamish where you grab the chains at the end. The next pitch is Aid so it could make sense. (I haven’t done this climb so perhaps someone who has can chime in).
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The part that I find confusing is this: If it is so hard to get to the chains, why wouldn’t you either a) move them lower to a logical endpoint or b) get stronger?
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You can see the lunge for the chains here:
http://vimeo.com/4082127
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I have to say that I was kind of expecting to see something a bit more dramatic. Not sure why.
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Well it’s “only” 13b and Pearson can climb “E11+” so …..
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Caught him at one of his lectures at Bristol Climbing Academy, was a really interesting – and although a cliché to say – inspirational talk! Worth it for the photo of him and Tommy when young!
Lil’ Pete
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OREGON TRAIL FTW
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That was the other big one. Such good times naming people on your team after despised classmates and then letting them get dysentery.
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carmen sandiago may have tried to teach geography and whatnot, but oregon trail taught us how waste, how to be AMERICAN!
“you killed 894 pounds of animal meat, but you can only carry 80 pounds back to the wagon”
life lessons to the maxx!
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I always liked the hunting the best, well, second after the river rafting at the end. Kind of ironic now, seeing that I’m marrying a vegetarian…
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welcome to the club!
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