Governor Dodge Bouldering Update

Governor Dodge Bouldering Update

Last year I made a few trips to Governor Dodge State Park to check out some of the bouldering that I had heard was there.  I found a few good problems and a lot of suspect rock.  My remark to many people at the time when asked about the bouldering at “The Dodge” was that there were enough problems to warrant a couple of trips, but nothing more than that.  Fast forward 7 months of downtime and two hand surgeries and all of a sudden The Dodge is blowing up in a big way.  Thanks to the dedicated efforts of John Freaney and others, many quality new lines have been established in recent months, and The Dodge is turning into an actual worthwhile bouldering destination for Wisconsin climbers.

With this new development fresh on my mind,  Mrs. Narc and I rolled out to The Dodge on Saturday with Kevin rounding out our crew.  Our goal was to check out the new problems since my last visit and to see if we couldn’t find any new problems of our own.  Conditions weren’t the best (seeping slopers?), but overall the day was successful.  Kevin and I climbed a really fun V4 called Out Past Curfew and spent a good deal of time working on separate projects on the Hangman boulder.  Unfortunately, I never charged our camera battery since returning from Yosemite so only a few pictures were taken before it died.

The highlight of the day came from Mrs. Narc.  While spying the line Mr. Longarm, I noticed an unclimbed* arete to the right that looked like it would a make a decent easy problem.  After 30 minutes of considerable scrubbing (and much more that could be done), Mrs. Narc deciphered the moves and braved the unknown at the topout to do her first FA.  She dubbed it Mrs. Shortarm because she was turned off by the incredible wingspan necessary to climb the adjacent Mr. Longarm.  This new problem is around the V-easy range and should make a nice addition to the warmup circuit once it receives a bit more traffic.

Mrs. Narc on the FA of Mrs. Shortarm

Mrs. Shortarm

Mrs. Shortarm

*As a small disclaimer:  With many lines at the Dodge it is entirely possible that they were climbed many years ago and then reclaimed by the moss to appear unclimbed when we come along nowawadays.

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10 Responses to Governor Dodge Bouldering Update

  1. sock hands August 13, 2008 at 9:28 am #

    word to the FA! i see that mrs. narc must be approached with caution in showing her around our crags… and our *projects*!

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  2. sock hands August 13, 2008 at 9:29 am #

    BIG SHOUT TO SWEATPANTS AND HIS FRITTERS!

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  3. You Know Who I 'Am' August 13, 2008 at 11:30 am #

    Thanks Sock Hands….many would tell you I must be approached with caution, but I assume it has less to do with climbing and more to do with what the Narc calls my fiery attitude. 🙂

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  4. chuffer August 13, 2008 at 4:27 pm #

    Yes, a BIG shout out to the pastry king himself sweatpants john freaney is certainly appropriate!

    Implied in every FA claim is a little “k” (FkA), short for First (known) Ascent. Glad to hear the narc is really starting to pull down AGAIN. Getting healthy finally, eh?

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  5. Narc August 14, 2008 at 11:45 am #

    Trying to feel healthy but it is an uphill battle.

    Who would have thought that sweatypants was such a celebrity.

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  6. Sweatpants August 14, 2008 at 12:50 pm #

    chuff and socky great to hear from you guys! I hope you’re doing well. Narc, you’ll be on your game before long for sure, thanks for the props, there’s a lot of guys working hard these days as well and its pretty neat to have what seems like a solid buzz on the area with new things being found/cleaned all the time. You Colorado guys wouldnt understand how nice it is to have a place to day trip to. And the sanity that it helps you maintain. Ohh yeah and by daytrip i mean its 3 and a half hours. welcome to the midwest. haha.

    It should also be noted the smiley happy picture of Mrs. Narc in the header, when underneath we know is a cold harded FA machine that takes no prisoners. your picture poses can’t trick us.

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  7. Sarah August 14, 2008 at 10:01 pm #

    Is that a new tank to go along with your new ascent Amels?

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  8. Sarah August 14, 2008 at 10:03 pm #

    Also, “fiery attitude” is a bit of an understatement.

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  9. Zachary August 14, 2008 at 10:35 pm #

    Now if we could only get some more routes bolted there…

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  10. palidon August 16, 2008 at 7:53 am #

    glad to see governor dodge getting some needed attention in the climbing world. i live about 6 miles from there and its a hugely underrated park. last night i ran across a decent sized wall for bouldering near twin valley lake, looks untouched. problem is its on a steep hill..

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