News & Notes – 06/11/08

News & Notes – 06/11/08

  • Sonnie Trotter recently repeated Dave MacLeod’s trad testpiece Rhapsody (5.14c R?) at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland.  You can read Sonnie’s own words on the entire experience at his blog.  You can read additional reports here, here, here, here, here, here, here and here.

Sonnie Trotter repeating Rhapsody

trotter

Photo:  Hot Aches Productions

  • Ethan Pringle continues his return to top form, this time he repeated Chris Lindner’s The All Around Routine (5.14b) at Ibex, UT.  You can see footage of what Ethan calls “The best sportclimb ever” in the Momentum Video Magazine Premium Section.  It looks really, really good.  Read Ethan’s report on his blog for more info.
  • [Climbing] Rapper Odub has written a tribute to Todd Skinner
  • This Saturday at 2 PM EST, Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell will be on NBC’s Jeep World Of Adventure Sports.  The show will feature them climbing and exploring in the Grand Canyon. (Via Climbing.com)
  • Speaking of Tommy Caldwell, on Sunday he made a one day ascent of his new free route on El Cap.  The route has 11 pitches of either 5.13 or 5.14 climbing!  Climbing has a more in depth write-up if you are interested.  Below is the approximate route followed:

magic_mush

Photo:  Luke Laeser

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sy97WVL4UZ8]

Posted In: Bouldering, News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Videos
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9 Responses to News & Notes – 06/11/08

  1. Kevlar June 11, 2008 at 10:30 am #

    WHOA! Get Over It looks like a ton of fun!

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  2. The Narc June 11, 2008 at 11:02 am #

    Yes however I think I failed to mention that it is V12

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  3. Craig B June 11, 2008 at 12:09 pm #

    Bro you saying you don’t think Kevlar can train at home hard enough to do V12?

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  4. The Narc June 11, 2008 at 3:48 pm #

    nobody on team is allowed to climb harder than the coaches…

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  5. Kevlar June 11, 2008 at 4:49 pm #

    It still looks incredibly fun. Narc, that rule of yours is more like a guideline, I think its already been broken. Maybe. Its controversial.

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  6. The Narc June 11, 2008 at 4:51 pm #

    I’m waiting for 8a.nu to make a recommendation before we proceed any further

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  7. Kevlar June 12, 2008 at 7:10 am #

    HAHHAHA! Ill probs be at the gym today!

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  8. peter June 13, 2008 at 7:19 pm #

    i’d wait for 8a.nu to have a feel a certain way…

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  9. peter June 16, 2008 at 11:35 pm #

    apparently trotter did the route twice, the second time placing all the gear on lead.

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