No Redemption (5.13b) at RRG Video

Check out this video of Zac Sans climbing No Redemption (5.13b) at Bob Marley, Red River Gorge, KY.
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Posted In: Sport Climbing, Videos


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6 Responses to No Redemption (5.13b) at RRG Video

  1. the bpc December 12, 2007 at 9:41 am #

    holy cripes! the only reservation i have to saying that this line is really motivating for me is that it looks way too difficult. not your typical “steep jug haul without any real crux” as many red lines are often dismissed as being.


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  2. Rachel Melville December 13, 2007 at 10:50 am #

    I wouldnt jump to any conclusions about it being “too difficult”…
    what you probably dont know is that the guy who filmed it (spencer) had zac climb the route dozens of times over the course of 5 days… (YES zac sent the route)

    Since this film is pieced together… some of the moves look more ‘epic’ than they actually are… for instance zac doesnt normally dyno… he was just so tired from 5 days of filming… he had to.
    anyways, go try it… the crux is actually between 3 and 4… with a redpoint crux higher… you might surprise yourself.

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  3. Climbing Narcissist December 13, 2007 at 11:12 am #

    besides, 5.13b is basically just V7 on a rope so that should be perfect for the ole BPC

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  4. Tony December 13, 2007 at 4:49 pm #

    Rach, is 4 the one kind of out to the right by the big horizontal, just off the black streak?

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  5. Rachel Melville December 18, 2007 at 1:56 pm #

    The film starts in the middle of the crux… the first draw we see zac clip is 3… the long move to the crimp is probably the toughest individual move on the route, and is early on. Of course there is a non-trivial redpoint crux up high…

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