News & Notes – 08/27/2007

News & Notes – 08/27/2007

As usual, I go away from a computer for a weekend and the sendtrain begins…

  • The big news is that Paul Robinson has made the 3rd ascent of Jade (V15 for now) in RMNP. The day after the Jade send, Paul did the second ascent of Chris Schulte’s new V13 Child Stars SDS at Mt. Evans. And to cap off the week, he made a quick repeat of Daniel Woods’s new line The Lockness Monster. Nice Work Paul!

Paul on Jade

Paul Robinson on Jade (V!5)

Photo: Woodsfamilyclimbs

  • Daniel Woods has added a sit start to the recently established (and oft-repeated) V11 Two Ton Tongue which he has dubbed The Lockness Monster (V13). Within a couple of days it was repeated by both Paul Robinson and Ty Landman.
  • Kevin Jorgenson has made the 3rd ascent of Ode to the Modern Man (V14) at Mt. Evans. Best known for climbing scary and difficult highballs, Kevin has now done two of the better known short power problems in the U.S. with the other being The Swarm (V14).
  • The Youth World Climbing Championships recently wrapped up. Click here for complete results. Despite reports last week that Ryan Roden did not attend, he in fact was there and he finished 7th! Congratulations as well to Tyler Haack who finished 18th.
  • is trying again with the pro blogs concept. They began last year but fizzled out in short order. Check out this newly updated blog by Jon Cardwell. In the post he talks about his travels across Europe this summer to areas like Gorges du Loup and Ceuse. He also gives some insight as to Ethan Pringle’s progress on Realization which was recently marred when Ethan broke a hold on a route which resulted in all the skin on one of his fingers being destroyed.
  • Check out this new video of Ty Landman repeating Paul Robinson’s Don’t Get Too Greedy (V13).
  • Sonnie Trotter recently established another contender for “hardest trad route in the world” when he redpointed The Path (5.14 R). Check out the video of him on the route:


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7 Responses to News & Notes – 08/27/2007

  1. Tony August 27, 2007 at 6:39 am #

    In the related videos at the bottom there’s a video of someone climbing an easy boulder problem at A-Rock.

    Also Sarah and I are in for Labor Day.

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  2. brian August 27, 2007 at 8:18 am #

    Good to hear you guys are in…prepare to pack very light!

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  3. big poppa chosscrush August 27, 2007 at 3:13 pm #

    jorgenson fanboy notes: i believe that the swarm is actually quite not short [seems to be tall in video, at least] and he did ‘ode…’ in something like a half-dozen tries over two days. he nearly sent on his second go, but blew a flapper and had to wait for a second visit so he could regenerate skin for the tradeshow.

    all this said, i’m still 17% cooler than kevin and he should know that just in case the same comes up in conversation at a coctail party… it is important to me that he saves face, you know.

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  4. Climbing Narcissist August 27, 2007 at 6:03 pm #

    I think the problem itself is quite tall but the super difficult crux section is short followed by more climbing to get to the top. That is pretty insane that he sent that fast…super small crimps are obviously something he excels at.

    I will keep this all in mind the next time Kevin Jorgenson vs Justin Jaeger comes up at a cocktail party 🙂

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  1. Sonnie Trotter’s New 5.14 R | Western Colorado Climbing - August 27, 2007

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