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Posted In: Sport Climbing
Climbers: Mauricio Huerta
Areas: Jilotepec
Posted In: Sport Climbing
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of his attempts here.
Mauricio Huerta Climbing 5.14c In Jilotepec, Mexico, 4.7 out of 5 based on 10 ratingsI don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Mauricio Huerta Climbing 5.14c In Jilotepec, Mexico, 4.7 out of 5 based on 10 ratingsI guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.
Mauricio Huerta Climbing 5.14c In Jilotepec, Mexico, 4.7 out of 5 based on 10 ratings© 2012 Climbing Narcissist. All Rights Reserved.




Subs:
” ‘Las chicas superpoderosas’ (The powerpuff girls) was bolted by Jonathan Solano.”
“I first tried it two years ago in 2008 with Diego “El Mutante”, who told me about the route and got me psyched to try it.”
“It was first climbed by Michäel Fuselier and then by Gérome
Pouvreau (in the 2010 Petzl Roctrip), and now me.”
“The route is very beautiful. You start with an easy section, before reaching the first boulder problem, a technical, hard problem with loads of dropknees and a right handed pinch…”
“You then get to a flat hold where you can shake out before entering the crux.”
“… It’s a very demanding problem, and you need a lot of body tension, a lot of compression, a lot of power and a lot of strength….”
“Then it’s a non-stop 8a+ (5.13c) with no rests, until you get to kneebar where you can rest a bit.”
“After that you climb a couple more boulder problems” (1st is “hard” 2nd is “roughly about a v6″) “with a good rest in between, beofre entering the final 6b+ (5.11a) section.”
Look at the pogo at min 7.38!! Amazing!
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Cool, thanks for sharing that!
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