2011 Dark Horse Series Championship Highlights

6 Responses to 2011 Dark Horse Series Championship Highlights

1. 

   cadaverchris February 8, 2011 at 10:27 am #

   Woods is nasty-strong!

   Looks like a great comp.

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2. 

   Hate Hate Hate February 8, 2011 at 1:22 pm #

   meh. way over edited. How about showing us some complete problems instead of chopped up bits?

   I hate the way setting for indoor bouldering comps is heading. it’s all big feet-cutting cross-over dynos and deadpoint moves to big, blobby holds (for the men, at least). It’s spreading to everyday gym setting too… “rose campus moves”, drop downs, “drive by” dynos…all that crap. These moves are supposed to be “spectator friendly” but to me it’s just…gym rat-esque…as dorky as it gets.

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3. 

   Dave February 8, 2011 at 2:43 pm #

   To each their own, thanks for the feedback nonetheless.

   Had we showed you complete problems the video would have been an hour long. If you have ever been to a comp, then you’d know there is a lot of standing around/ looking at the problems, and multiple climbers on different problems. I think it came out great, and really showed the style Dave was going for when setting the routes. And judging from the video, I’d say the spectators were pretty psyched.

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4. 

   daustin February 8, 2011 at 8:41 pm #

   I thought the video was fine — after all, it was just highlights. But I do agree about bouldering comp routes. Big dynamic moves are obviously crowd-pleasers, and there should certainly be a place for them, but from a climber’s perspective I think highly technical, beta-intensive moves are much more entertaining to watch. Basically I’m talking crazy heel hooks, or maybe for Finals problems, toe hooks. Mind you I’ve never actually been to or participate in a comp so take everything I say with a jagged little grain of salt.

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5. 

   Narc February 9, 2011 at 6:12 am #

   I enjoyed the video. It was a “highlight” reel after all. I thought it did a good job capturing the excitement of both the crowd and the competitors alike. I would agree that overly-dynamic movement seems to be overtaking the comp scene but it’s hard to really say without seeing footage of all the problems in their entirety.

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6. 

   Narc February 9, 2011 at 12:03 pm #

   From Natasha Barnes’ blog about competing in the comp:

   “The first two climbs for both men and women were very technical and included some very nice huge features as well as some grip taped volumes which, if I am not mistaking, is a style inspired at the NorEaster by French route setter Tonde Katiyo. It was nice to have a couple of technical problems in an American bouldering competition for once. I think this is something that is not done very often in the U.S. but it’s a welcome change to the usual campus-dyno-steep-crowd pleaser problems that are normally set at these things. The crowd was still engaged by the technical climbs and they went wild whenever anyone was able to solve the tricky moves and get a high point or send the climbs.”

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