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Adam Ondra offers brief glimpses that he might, in fact, be a human

Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
This might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Carlo Traversi shares his thoughts on defining one’s climbing style in a recent interview for The Bouldering Book
A few News & Notes items from Dai Koyamada, Iker Pou, Alex Johnson, Renan Ozturk and much more…

Adam Ondra in an October 2011 interview with new Swedish website Stockholmsklättring:
I think I’m quite efficient in climbing routes in a few attempts but I do think that if I spent 50 tries or more on one route I might be able to climb 9b+1 but certainly I wouldn’t be able to climb any harder. You have to bear in mind that when you are working on a route for a long time there is a mental barrier which you have to breach. Additionaly in reality you loose your power because your only trying a handfull of moves which means you are not training so much. You just keep climbing the very same moves and it could be true that you progress on these specific moves but in reality your shape is decreasing.
My question for Ondra: When are you coming to America??
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold spent Saturday romping up big walls in Yosemite. The pair free climbed Freerider on El Cap (6:45 climbing), the South Face of Mt. Watkins (2:40 climbing) and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome (5 climbing) in just over 21 hours. More at Climbing.com. So…how was your weekend??
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
© 2012 Climbing Narcissist. All Rights Reserved.




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