So obsessed with climbing it hurts...
Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
Turns out Paul Robinson was next as he did the 5th ascent of Dave Graham’s Memory Is Parallax (V14) over the weekend.
Dave Graham’s Memory Is Parallax (V14) is the flavor of the month among the Frontrange’s elite boulderers as in the past few days both Matty Hong and Carlo Traversi have joined Daniel Woods in punching their tickets on the send train of this great new problem. Who’s next??
Sasha DiGiulian ends her long relations with Mad Rock and signs with Five Ten:
I had a fabulous relationship with the people there [Mad Rock], but I came to the decision that in order to pursue my career, I had to find a shoe more compatible for my personal preferences. I found this shoe with Five Ten and I am very enthusiastic about this momentous change.
Given the year DiGiulian had and her relatioinship with Five Ten’s new parent company it’s hard to see this kind of move as a surprise.
Chris Webb Parsons reports on his website that he has done the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Desperanza, the proposed V15 low start to Esperanza in Hueco Tanks:
Im not sure if the full grade of V15 is correct for this boulder, but being that is a tad harder than Esperanza maybe V15 is correct? I don’t know?
Alex Puccio is also in Hueco with Webb Parsons and she has done a few V10s and the V11 Sunshine.
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The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
This might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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Will: What a breath of fresh air, this guy is the epitom...
Narc: Yeah, problems on my end...
Dave: Hmm, looks like narc commeted but it is hidden? ...
Dave: Does that comment mean she toproped it first? ...
Brianh: Seeing the holds and understanding how to move bet...
TheDanDan: If I were on a trip to font, I certainly wouldn't...
Gelu: V14 is the new V13....
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