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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love

Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:

Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.

Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.

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When In Doubt Pack It Out

I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom.  In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.

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Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)

I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.

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El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012

So, listen up Cubicle Pukes!! Put down your work, clear the room, put on some cool tunes, and come with me to the Valley of your dreams, in this, the first of many Reports to follow.

Yep, the El Cap Report is back.

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Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)

Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)

Back in March Hayden Kennedy did the FA of Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-) in Indian Creek, UT, and now courtesy of sponsor Patagonia we have this excellent video by Austin Siadak and Matt Van Biene of Kennedy climbing the route.

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Ashima Hits The New York Times

Climbing phenom Ashima Hiraishi hits the front page of the New York Times’ Sports Section with an accompanying video featuring her on Crown Of Aragorn (V13).

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Keep It Simple

Sonnie Trotter provides five tips for getting better at climbing rooted in the following premise:

The worlds most accomplished sport climber and boulderer Adam Ondra has recently completed his first one arm chin up according to Planet Mountain.com.   This fact only reinforces what I (and dozens of other climbers and coaches) have said for years, the key to climbing hard is not in the arms at all.  It’s mostly in the fingers and core.

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