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Hueco Tanks Public Use Plan Under Review

Melissa Strong, who owns and operates the excellent Wagon Wheel Co-opt in Hueco Tanks, brings news that the Public Use Plan that lays out guidelines for access to Hueco Tanks is under review:

On January 27, 2015 about 40 people joined together for the first meeting in a series of six to review the Public Use Plan, PUP, implemented in 2000 by Texas Park and Wildlife Department, TPWD, in Hueco Tanks State Park & Historic Site, HTSP&HS.

These meetings were sparked for many reasons including the discussion of local access being limited due to the PUP and according to some because of climbers.   It is true many climbers frequent The Park but the limited access of the PUP gives everyone the same equal rights of accessing Hueco Tanks.

The outlook from the perspective of us climbers does seem ok, but this is definitely something for us to keep an eye on. Many thanks to Melissa, Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition, the American Alpine Club and the Access Fund for their work on this.

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Mike Doyle Repeats Necessary Evil (5.14c)

Mike Doyle, writing on his blog about becoming “the oldest, shortest, weakest and least talented climber” to repeat the rarely-repeated Chris Sharma testpiece Necessary Evil (5.14c) in Arizona’s Virgin River Gorge:

I’ve had quite a few people say they think it’s amazing that I work full time and was able to climb this route. I really do appreciate that and yes, I do work a lot but honestly that’s not the part I am most proud of. I’m proud that this route was hard for me and I did it.
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I set myself up pretty well to be able to get out once during the week and on weekends. The community in Vegas stepped up to support me and made it possible. Everyone is different and has different ‘distractions’ in their life. I don’t hold myself above anyone else because I work full time and can’t climb at a peak level all the time. It’s a choice I made, continue to make, and a lifestyle I accept. My work is just my distraction.

Work is a distraction for a lot of us, it’s just that for the vast majority1 of us we don’t climb 5.14c when we aren’t distracted.  I say well done to you, Mike, and congratulations!
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You can see some video of Mike working the route here.

  1. Dare I say all?
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Petition To Save Geyikbayiri

Bad news about potential mining at the Turkish sport climbing paradise, Geyikbayiri:

Rock climbing at Geyikbayiri, one of biggest and the most famous sport climbing areas in Turkey, may be at risk due to a project that received official permission at the end of last year to explore the possibility of mining in the area. Should marble suitable for quarrying be found, this would affect circa 350 of the 1000 routes at Geyikbayiri, in the sectors Cesme, Sarkit, Mağara, Anatolia, Dragon, Güzel Manzara, Posaidon, Ottoman, Mevlana, Barbarossa, Akdeniz and Ekos. At present the mining research has not yet started and a grass-action climber’s protest has sprung up against this recent development.

You can sign the petition here.

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Alex Puccio’s 9th National Championship

Alex Puccio, writing about her mindset prior to winning her 9th National Championship in bouldering:

I always feel more pressure for ABS Nationals than any other Pro competition in the country.  I think most of it is due to the fact that I have been National Champion for many years and therefore many people expect me to do well. Most people think that the longer you do competitions and do well at them that the easier it gets mentally, but for me it actually gets harder. I know a lot of top athletes that share the same feelings as well.
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Because I have achieved so much, I have so much more to lose.
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It feels as if it would be such a big deal to everyone around me if I were unable to defend my title. And it’s bound to happen at some point!

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Potential New V15 In The UK

Climb Magazine reports on a potential new V15 in the UK by Mike Adams:

The latest chapter unfolded on Tuesday 3rd of February when Mike managed to link in the obvious low start of Serendipity into Serenade, to give Serenata. Serenata weighs in at 8C, Mike’s first of that grade and one only a handful of 8Cs in the UK.
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Interview With ABS Nationals Winner Mohammad Jafari

Nice interview with surprise ABS Nationals winner Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi by his home gym in the U.S., Earth Treks Climbing in Golden, CO:

For me, winning championships comes second. The thing that is most important to me is being able to travel and build relationships with climbers and people from all over the world.

Lost in all the controversy over the scoring system was the great performance turned in by Mohammad.
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 From the interview it sounds like he will be in the U.S. for a few years, so I think we can look forward to seeing him compete again.

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“I would like to take a look at it”

Adam Ondra, in an interview with Squamish Climbing Magazine about his thoughts on Yosemite and the Dawn Wall:

Yes, I feel ashamed that I have never been to Yosemite, and this climb is something that make my fingers sweaty! I don’t say this year, but in the future I would like to take a look at it.
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Just a look?

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