Daniel Woods made an impromptu trip out to Bishop this week with the goal of doing the first repeat of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming (V15). Spoiler alert: he did not send.
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The story behind the failures are oftentimes more interesting than the stories behind the actual send though, so I enjoyed this piece on the RV Project blog recapping Woods’ efforts.
Daniel Woods Does Not Repeat Lucid Dreaming
Posted In: Asides, Bouldering
Climbers: Daniel Woods
Areas: Bishop, Buttermilks
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30 Responses to Daniel Woods Does Not Repeat Lucid Dreaming
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I picture in my head a scene something like in the 2nd Matrix movie where Neo is fighting a bunch of dudes with different swords and clubs and the Frenchman screaming something like “He is human!” when Neo (Woods) gets cut and bleeds.
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It’s pretty rough when your nonsends get reported in a larger fashion then many of your other big sends. That said, while the title of this piece is rather off-putting, I really appreciate the RV Project’s post.
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I found the title quite amusing, which I’m guessing was the intent.
I’m also very impressed with how Woods has sought out and tried unrepeated problems like Warpath, Gioia (before Ondra did it), Hydrangea, and now Lucid Dreaming. Quite a contrast to the “I only do first ascents now” attitude that some of the top boulderers seem to have.
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It seems that the sign that a climber is really at the top of the game is when it is newsworthy when that climber is not successful on a well known testpiece. A similar example is Ondra’s flash attempt on Realization. We’ve all gotten so used to DW making quick work of every hard problem that he touches, that it is noteable when one slows him down a bit. Makes you respect how hard a problem Paul put up.
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This is the 216th post or video I’ve put up mentioning Mr. Woods so I think he’s gotten plenty of well deserved attention for his successes.
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If you had to report all the times I did not send you would need a crew working for you round the clock.
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jack?
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Thanks for the story/link on this one. I usually find the stories of hard efforts and near successes as inspiring as the quick sends, it reminds me that DW is human too. I had been wondering if/when someone was going to give some serious effort to Lucid Dreaming. 3 days is certainly not much time to spend on a top level boulder. Hopefully he gets back there soon to finish it off.
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In a community where we acknowledge peoples word as being good enough confirmation a boulder problem has been done, why not acknowledge at least 1 other person has claimed the first ascent of Rasta Man sit well before Paul. Is Paul super human and no person before him able to achieve this. Paul had no witness or video so why acknowledge his ascent and not others..just food for thought.
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What are you talking about?
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Word is not, and has not been–since long before Maestri’s outrageous claim on Cerro Torre–, good enough confirmation of an ascent. A wise man proportions his belief to the evidence. Previous confirmed ascents matter (as in the case with the 1959 route on Cerro Torre) but are not evidence enough in all circumstances.
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How are we to credit said person if you are going to be so vague not to mention your inflammatory comments about Paul (which are not new)?
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Why is a dead philosopher lurking on the narc?
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i think he’s referring to Matt Birch, whom if i remember correctly, i think i read (maybe in the Narc’s comment section during the LD Paul bashing) that MB had stuck the moves, but never linked it, or maybe did it from one move in (eg a higher hand). i don’t know, but MB is the name that comes to mind.
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Even then, to my knowledge only 3 people have topped the thing out all the way up; Jared, Paul, and one other (and that last one apparently started without his hand on the undercling, just pulled on and jumped). Rastaman Vibration itself has only seen a handful of ascents even if you count dropping from the lip.
*Info taken from Wills Young’s blog
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Alex Biale was the other guy.
I wouldn’t take the comment from “Will” up there too seriously. Every time there is a mention of Lucid Dreaming, someone pops up with a post that bashes Paul in some way. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s all the same person.
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I thought Alex did Rastaman…not Lucid. Could be wrong though.
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Rastaman Vibration is the problem that PBC was talking about.
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Alex Biale here – I did not climb Rastaman Vibration. Some friends and I were playing around on the boulder and were climbing on the topout portion of this line and some big name photographer snapped a photo and a couple days later there was an article saying I climbed Rastaman. This is just absurd since Rastaman is one of the hardest single moves in the world and I climb V10.
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Still photos are the best!
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I climb so much harder in still photos.
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You too?
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The person I was referring to is Charlie Brendsen who laid claim to Rasta Man sit years before Paul on 8a. Not trying to bash Paul, I don’t know him or have any reason to discredit him. I’m just stating other people have claimed this boulder first. Also, it’s funny how we use statements like “only 3 people have done the jump”. So many people pass thru the Buttermilks who don’t care to publicly announce they have done a single move on a difficult problem or the entire thing. They don’t care for free shoes or 5 carabiners, it’s not the reason they climb.
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Here’s the 8a profile he’s referring to:
http://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=7967
Looks kinda strange, and I can find no mention of the dude anywhere else. People can draw their own conclusions I guess. It’s a bit of a moot point since since the comment says that did not top out, which means he never completed the climb anyway.
If your question is why this “claim” is not being given the same attention as Paul Robinson’s “claim,” the answer seems pretty fucking obvious.
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I also believe a climb must be topped out, but if you look at the climb immediately to the right – Evilution was not originally topped out and how many people think it’s not a moot point, including the Bishop guide itself.
Dan can you tell me the” pretty fucking obvious” I don’t see it.
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The Evilution example supports my point; Jason Kehl is considered to have the first ascent of the line, not Chris Sharma.
As for what’s so obvious: we have zero evidence to suggest that Charlie Brendsen is even a real person, much less capable of climbing one of the hardest boulder problems on the planet.
I’m not going to belabor the point any further, as I agree with the Narc regarding the value of further discussion.
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I would say more importantly, if you want the world to know what you’ve done, then you have to tell the world. A little 8a post usually isn’t enough. Whether they climb for that reason or not, it doesn’t matter. The effort you put in to self-promotion is what you get out.
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I’m all for conversation but this is getting a bit repetitive in a distinctly non-productive fashion. If it continues the way it has been I may have to close this discussion.
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Anonamos,
I’m unsure of what you are saying can you elaborate.
Thanks
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That piece on Woods was great, and had some interesting insights on lucid dreaming.
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