News & Notes – 12/20/2011

News & Notes – 12/20/2011

Tell Santa to take the week off…News & Notes is back with this massive dump of news…

  • In case you missed the video, Nalle Hukkataival flashed Crown Of Aragorn (V13) in Hueco Tanks a couple of weeks ago.  This is the 2nd V13 to be flashed in Hueco after Paul Robinson pulled off Nagual in one try back in 2007.
  • Ben Spannuth persevered through some less than ideal late-season conditions in the Red River Gorge to nab a repeat of Adam Taylor’s The Goldent Ticket (5.14d) according to DPM.  You’ll remember that earlier in his trip Spannuth managed to climb two 5.14c’s in a single day.
  • Paul Robinson and Daniel Woods have been having a good trip to Font.  Looking at their respective 27Crags ticklists we can see that Robinson has added a repeat of Supertanker (V14) and Woods has done The Traphouse (V14) and Gecko Assis (V14).
  • Sonnie Trotter repeated Kevin Jorgeson’s Ambrosia[1. Or at least what people are referring to as Ambrosia.  Breaking of holds has led to some changes in how people do the bottom section.], the super highball at the Buttermilks.  See a picture of him on the line here.
  • These kids are good at rock climbing
  • Dan Beall is in the Buttermilks where, according to this post on the Bishop Bouldering blog, he did the 3rd ascent of Direct North (V14) and did the FA of Misdirection (V14).  Both problems are variations and/or link ups on the Grandma Peabody boulder.
  • UKClimbing reports that Japan’s Sachi Amma has done the first repeat of Chris Sharma’s Pachamama (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain.
  • Speaking of Fred Nicole, he was in Boulder, CO in October, and he found time to repeat Trice (V12) using old school beta more akin to how it was done way back in the 1970’s by Jim Holloway.
  • Both Ian Dory and Nalle Hukkatiaval have repeated Dave Graham’s Lost In The Hood (V14) in Cowell, Arkansas.
  • According to his 8a scorecard Gregor Peirce did his hardest problem to date with an ascent of The Swarm (V13/14) in Bishop, CA.
  • And finally, according to his 8a scorecard Jimmy Webb notched another V14 in his belt with a repeat of Esperanza (V14) in Hueco Tanks.  He followed that up with an ascent of the iconic Slashface (V13) and the 2nd ascent of Daniel Woods’ Yellow Diamonds (V13).

Posted In: Bouldering, News, Sport Climbing
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10 Responses to News & Notes – 12/20/2011

  1. Scott Strong December 20, 2011 at 8:11 am #

    Oh Jesus.  I can only imagine what the drive from El Paso to Cowell Arkansas might be like.

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  2. DS December 20, 2011 at 8:23 am #

    “less than ideal” conditions in the Red? It has been a near-perfect almost all month!

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    • Narc December 20, 2011 at 8:27 am #

      Maybe the pros are just soft then?

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      • DS December 20, 2011 at 10:19 am #

        Yeah, it’s weird… nearly all the visitors bailed, pretty much empty crags and perfect sending conditions almost every day, minus a couple cold rainy ones. Best December in years!

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  3. Mbsst26 December 20, 2011 at 9:46 am #

    Don’t forget that the all new glossy, mostly accurate grades, Mt. Grenta (Gov. Dick) guide book has been released.

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    • Narc December 20, 2011 at 10:10 am #

      Link??

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  4. Brianh December 20, 2011 at 2:52 pm #

    That Francois Nicole story is dated 8-December, 2009.  Must be more “note” than “news”.

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    • Narc December 20, 2011 at 2:56 pm #

      Huh. I though there was a reason that sounded familiar.

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  5. joeyjoejoe December 20, 2011 at 3:45 pm #

    Everybody should read the story at the “These kids are good at rock climbing” link. It’s about Team ABC climbing in Hueco. A 14-year-old girl flashed a v11. Lots of other ridiculous under-aged sends. 

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  6. Gi joe December 21, 2011 at 5:14 am #

    and seb bouin 9a/+ first repeat in France ?

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