The 2nd leg of the 2011 World Cup Bouldering circuit took place this past weekend in Log-Dragomer, Slovenia with France’s Guillaume Glairon-Mondet wining for the men and Austria’s Anna Stöhr winning on the women’s side. For the Americans, Alex Johnson finished in 10th and Alex Puccio made her way onto the podium for the first time ever in a non-U.S. World Cup finishing 3rd. Here are the rest of the results from the top 6:
| 2011 Bouldering World Cup – Log-Dragomer, Slovenia | |
| Men’s Final Results | Women’s Final Results |
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Over on the ClimbingNarc Facebook page a reader asked a question about the World Cup’s scoring system, so now seems like as good a time as any to revisit that subject. The first thing to understand is that there are only two holds that count for scoring on each of the 4 problems competitors climbed in finals (or any round for that matter): the bonus hold and a top hold. No other holds matters for scoring purposes. The other component for scoring purposes is the number of attempts it takes a climber to reach each of these holds.
So, the best way to interpret the results is to simply read them from left to right. If we take Guillaume Glairon-Mondet’s score of 3t3 4b6 as an example it can read as saying that he topped out 3 problems, taking 3 attempts total to reach those 3 tops. He also reached 4 bonus holds taking 6 attempts total to reach those 4 bonus holds. In other words, he flashed 3 of the problems (3 tops in 3 tries) and reached the bonus hold on a fourth problem in 3 attempts (he would have reached 3 of the bonus holds in 3 tries while flashing those problems which leaves 3 attempts for the final bonus hold).
Once you have a grasp on this interpretation, ranking the competitors against one another is pretty easy once you know how the IFSC breaks things down. Here is how the rankings are described in the IFSC rulebook:
After each round, the competitors shall be ranked according to the following criteria:
- The number of successfully completed boulders
- The total number of attempts to complete the boulders
- The total number of bonus points
- The total number of attempts to achieve these bonus point
So, if we take Glairon-Mondet’s score of 3t3 4b6 and compare it with Sharafutdinov’s 3t6 4b9 we see that even though they both topped out 3 problems Glairon-Mondet’s tops only took 3 attempts which is why he came out on top.
Another example would be to compare Jenny Lavarda (0t 1b1) and Natlija Gros (0t 1b2) on the women’s side. Neither of them topped out a boulder (0t) so we move to bonus holds to separate the two. Lavarda reached her 1 bonus hold in 1 attempt while Gros took 2 attempts to reach her 1 bonus hold which is how we come up with Lavarda finishing in 5th and Gros finishing in 6th.
Got all that?
Put your World Cup scoring skills to the test this weekend when the circuit moves to Vienna, Austria. Watch a live broadcast of the comp at IFSC.tv, and come back here next week where we’ll have a scoring quiz to see if you were paying attention 🙂
what about determining the final world cup champion? is the champion simply determined by who won the most bouldering world cup events (e.g. Adam Ondra wins 5 events, and therefore gets crowned as the champion)?
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Competitors are given points on a sliding scale based on their finish in each of the events. It’s all laid out on page 41-42 of this document
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Brilliant explanation!
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Brilliant explanation!
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Are the attempts only counted if the competitor reaches the bonus or final hold? ie. If a competitor takes many attempts on a problem that is too hard for them and doesn’t reach the bonus or final hold will those attempts counnt against them?
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My understanding is that they only count the # of attempts it takes to first reach either a bonus or top. So for your question those attempts would not be counted.
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Are Woods and Ondra not in the circuit this year?
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Nope. Woods has never done it and Ondra has commented a few times how he is
focusing on real rock objectives for this year (other than the World
Championships I believe).
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Is the world cup something you have to sign up for to do in its entirety or could a competitor come and go as they please? For example, could Alex Johnson/Puccio just compete in this one? Or once you’re on the circuit are expected to finish the whole thing? Just curious as to how all this works. Great description on the scoring by the way Narc, it really helped.
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I’m pretty sure competitors can and do register on an event by event basis.
For example most of the Americans (all except Alex Johnson) that have done
the World Cup in Vail never competed in any of the other events that year.
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Great explanation,Narc. Thanks.
Also, is an attempt for the bonus the same thing as an attempt for the top? I.e. can the climb just to the bonus, and then jump off, and then on the next go climb through to the top, and still be 1t1 1b1? Or would that be 1t2 1b1?
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I believe that would still be 1t1 1b1
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Thanks. That seems odd though… kind of counter intuitive, like it’s breaking a boulder problem in half and treating it like two boulder problems on top of each other.
Any chance you’ll be at the RRG this weekend? Looking for a partner 🙂
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no that would be 1t2 1b1
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Ahh yes, right you are. Not sure what I was thinking.
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narc, any idea what the prize money per event is? It’s unclear to me on http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/prizemoney whether or not the money awarded is for the entire year or for each event?
thanks
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I’m not really sure how that all works
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