News & Notes – 3/22/2011

News & Notes – 3/22/2011

News…

  • Ok, this Adam Ondra situation is getting a bit ridiculous.  Desnivel reports that he onsighted yet another 5.14c, this time Chris Sharma’s Mind Control in Oliana.  Oh yeah, and parts of the route were soaking wet.
  • Also not afraid of some wet rock is Daniel Woods who, according to B3Bouldering, did the long-awaited 2nd ascent of James Litzs’ Warpath at Idaho’s Castle Rock.  Video of the FA can still be seen here.
  • According to her scorecard Thomasina Pidgeon has done Jesse Bonin’s The Aquarium, a long V12 at the Sad Boulders in Bishop, CA.
  • Ryan Palo writes on his blog that 11 year-old Drew Ruana sent Rude Boys (5.13c) in Smith Rock, OR.
  • Brion Voges and Brad Weaver had a good spring break trip to Colorado.  Voges managed to send Suspension of Disbelief (V13) in Eldorado Canyon and Fantasia (now V13 apparently) near Denver while Weaver made a fast repeat of Circadian Rhythm (V13) in Poudre Canyon as well as the 4th ascent of Fantasia.  A nice video from their trip can be seen here.
  • According to her scorecard Flannery Shay-Nemirow did 2 V11’s over the course of a few days with sends of Hardboiled in Boulder Canyon and Formula 50 Direct Exit in Clear Creek Canyon.

…And Notes

  • The Access Fund is celebrating their 20th anniversary, and in this post on their website they look back at 20 milestones they’ve achieved over the years.  Be sure to check that out.
  • The American Alpine Club launched their “Unite” campaign to help promote their vision of “uniting climbers to advance the climbing way of life”.  The goal behind this campaign is to highlight the benefits of AAC membership to current and prospective members.  Learn more about the campaign, which includes several high resolution images you can download, by clicking here.  In addition, the deadline for various AAC grants is the end of March.  Read more about that here.

One of the images from the AAC’s Unite Campaign

Let me relate a story real quick. A new multipitch route on Fire Wall (Tonsai, Phranang Peninsula) goes up with stainless expansion bolts. The very same bolts that are used throughout all of Europe and the States. One year later a team of two Norwegians go to repeat the route. The leader climbs the first 6b pitch without falling and establishes the belay at two bolts. Before bringing up his seconder, he clips the rope into the first bolt of the 7c pitch above. When the seconder reaches the belay, both climbers lean back to survey the pitch above and BOTH BELAY BOLTS SNAP.

Yes.

They are left hanging by the single bolt on the next pitch. That could have been two deaths right there, and it was really just luck more than anything else that saved them. I mean, who would think that an entire belay which isbasically brand new would self destruct under bodyweight?

Well this is what happens to stainless steel bolts in a few select places in the world, and southern Thailand is one of these places.

Forget what you think you know about bolting. It does not apply here.

Posted In: Access, Bouldering, Industry, Interviews, News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing
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7 Responses to News & Notes – 3/22/2011

  1. guest March 22, 2011 at 3:39 pm #

    apparently Weaver did the 4th ascent of Fantasia as well according to 8a

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    • Narc March 22, 2011 at 3:44 pm #

      Sure enough, thanks for the heads up.

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  2. LeahM March 22, 2011 at 5:42 pm #

    Thanks for the great updates on the climbing world at large! Much appreciated

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  3. Saltyair March 22, 2011 at 11:52 pm #

    I have not done much route climbing near salt water but is there not something about the rapid breakdown of steel due to salt in the air. I’ve heard quite a few stories about bolt issues in that area. Glad to hear that those two are OK!

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    • Narc March 23, 2011 at 12:06 am #

      That’s what the post talks about if you click through and read the whole thing

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  4. Lee Cujes March 23, 2011 at 12:17 am #

    Thanks for the plug on my Thailand article Narc. Cheers dude!

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    • Narc March 23, 2011 at 11:05 am #

      No problem, thanks for the informative post!

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