News & Notes: Hueco Tanks Edition

News & Notes: Hueco Tanks Edition

The winter season is in full effect in Hueco Tanks, TX with several interesting sends going down in recent weeks:

  • The southeast crew of Brad Weaver, Brion Voges and Jimmy Webb were in Hueco at various times in December.  Weaver, on his first trip to Hueco, managed flashes of Chablanke (V11), Diaphanous Sea (V11), Power Of Landjager (V11) and Tequila Sunrise which was once considered V13 but now may be V11 or V12.  Webb and Voges did not leave empty-handed either as Webb sent Full Throttle (V13), Flamignon (V13) and Coeur de Leon (V13) and Voges was able to send Slashface (V13) before injuring a finger.  Here’s are a few videos from their trips:

  • The 2nd video above features Daniel Woods running a lap on Terre de Sienne, a Fred Nicole problem on North Mountain that was long registered as V14 by repeaters who maintain 8a scorecards.  That has changed though as both Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson adjusted their respective scorecards at some point to change the grade of this problem to V13 with Robinson commenting “def not 8b+ (V14)”.
  • On a related note, Canadian Simon Parton just pulled off a really impressive 2nd try ascent of Terre de Sienne according to 8a.nu.
  • Speaking of Daniel Woods, he’s been busy adding V13s to East Mountain according to his 8a scorecard with the first ascents of Yellow Diamonds near the Dragon’s Den and Carol of the Bones near Slashface.  DPM has a few photos of the latter problem here.
  • Brian Antheunisse had an excellent week recently in which he sent 4 V13s:  Full Throttle, Coeur de Leon, Diabolique and Nagual.
  • Sam Davis was on hand to capture a few photos of Phil Schaal sending Slashface (V13) and Antheunisse’s aforementioned send of Full Throttle.
  • And in news that is interesting because of the age of the climbers, 36 year-old Jan De Smit sent Diabolique (V13) and 14 year-old Liam Vance sent El Techo De Los Tres Bs (V11) and Diaphanous Sea (V11/12).

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14 Responses to News & Notes: Hueco Tanks Edition

  1. brian December 27, 2010 at 11:29 am #

    Why is a V13 send news-worthy because the climber is 36?[1] There are plenty of “old folks” climbing at least that hard.

    [1] I assume it could be difficult to get a wheelchair to Diabolique.

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  2. Pat C December 27, 2010 at 2:35 pm #

    I remember in 2005 when Fred climbed Terre De Sienne, it was originally V15, funny how it has come down 2 full grades. Still a really cool line though!

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  3. greg December 28, 2010 at 12:00 pm #

    how do i access these videos? i couldnt do it in the font post either…am i missing something here?

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    • Narc December 28, 2010 at 1:56 pm #

      Do they not show up for you or what is happening that you can’t access them?

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      • greg December 28, 2010 at 5:20 pm #

        they are all just stills about the same size as a vimeo screen? i need my font dose!!!!! help!!!!! haha.

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        • brian December 29, 2010 at 8:47 am #

          Do you have a Flash-block plugin installed in your browser?

          Another option is to go to the video directly, then select the HTML5 player.

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    • mb December 29, 2010 at 1:58 pm #

      it does that to me when i use Chrome, using firefox the videos come up just fine

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      • Narc December 30, 2010 at 10:33 am #

        Weird. It works fine for me in chrome. If you figure anything out let me know in case it’s something wrong on my end.

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  4. Crafty December 28, 2010 at 12:35 pm #

    Pat C, I believe that Fred used slightly different beta for the feet, which may have influenced his thoughts on the grade. I am not sure how different, but I think that he did not use the big dropknee that you see Graham using in Dosage 4 when attempting terremer.

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    • Pat C December 29, 2010 at 12:01 am #

      I thought I remember pics of him doing it the same way that DW does it in Jimmy Webb’s video, going left hand first. I was actually in Hueco that winter in 2005 and talked to Fred about it, he didn’t seem to care much about the grade, he was pretty psyched on the name of the climb though.

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      • Narc December 29, 2010 at 6:36 am #

        Don’t you feel like a part of Nicole’s legacy has to be his names for his problems? They are generally quite interesting. Or at least as interesting as the name of a sequence of moves on short rocks can be.

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  5. Pat C December 29, 2010 at 3:09 pm #

    For sure Narc, he said Terre De Sienne was a colour he was painting with lately.

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    • Pat January 8, 2011 at 6:38 pm #

      Ironically, it also sounds like “Tear da Skin”, which is a
      definite possibility when you see those holds!

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      • Pat C January 11, 2011 at 1:33 am #

        Oh crap, what happens when another Pat replies to a comment
        that a Pat made??? A Patocalypse of gargantuan proportion?
        http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terre_de_Sienne I would translate but
        you have Babelfish for that!

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