Ten Sleep

Ten Sleep

As a sport climbing area Ten Sleep, WY was lurking somewhat under the radar nationally until James Litz blew through town last year establishing a slew of 5.14s over the course of a single season.  This summer, the ever-psyched Joe Kinder setup shop in Ten Sleep, and he’s been reporting back on 5.14 getting sent by both himself and local Alli Rainey as well as chronicling his never-ending search for the next ill gnar cave to bolt.

Then there is the Ten Sleep guidebook written by Aaron Huey.  Oh my, what a guidebook.  If you’ve seen the book you know what I’m referring to.  While it does a very decent job of directing you toward climbs at all the different areas of Ten Sleep that’s not what one takes away from reading the book.  From the symbols of patriotism used to denote 5 star routes to the communist/military themed cover to the almost stream of consciousness musings of Huey the book is an interesting read from cover to cover.  The book may not be “safe for kids”, but it’s definitely the most unique guidebook I’ve ever seen.

With the news about Ten Sleep fresh in my mind and a copy of the guidebook in hand, Mrs. Narc and I made a brief stop in Ten Sleep over the 4th of July to see what all the fuss was about.  Turns out we weren’t the only ones with this idea as evidenced by the parking lot for the Mondo Beyondo on the 4th of July.

Colorado North

So, yeah it was a bit more crowded than perhaps I expected but then again it was the 4th of July.  Either way, Ten Sleep is a pretty large area so we didn’t have too many problems finding good routes to get on although many of the “classics” from the guidebook did have lines.

A small portion of the "Mondo Beyondo"

The one thing that jumped out at me on all the routes we climbed was how closely bolted everything was. I’m not saying it’s good or bad, but just be prepared to stop and clip pretty often.

Slavery Wall

Overall, the few routes we did try were quite fun and my only regret was that I wasn’t strong enough we didn’t have more time to try some of the harder routes the canyon had to offer.  If I had to pick a favorite of the routes I did do I’d say that Save The Best For Last (5.11) at Wall of Denial was my favorite with School’s Out (5.10d) at Slavery Wall a close second.

There's rock everywhere in Ten Sleep Canyon

An added bonus to visiting Ten Sleep over the 4th of July is the celebration the town of Ten Sleep has throughout the weekend.  The rodeo alone made the entire trip to Ten Sleep worth it.  Don’t miss it if you have the chance.  There’s also a very low key climber gathering that coincides with the 4th of July weekend every year that we did not get a chance to check out, but I suspect it was very enjoyable for those who did attend.

From Ten Sleep we made our way further west, stopping in the Tetons and Yellowstone before heading north to Glacier National Park.  Here are some photos from the rest of our journey:

Posted In: Pictures, Sport Climbing
Tags:
Climbers: ,
Areas:

Subscribe

Subscribe to the RSS feed to receive updates, and follow us on Twitter & Facebook

11 Responses to Ten Sleep

  1. kyber.c July 27, 2010 at 9:51 am #

    did you get to try circus in the wind? right around the corner from save the best for last… another classic 11.. ten sleep is full of 4-5 star 11s and 12s and i’m assuming 13’s and (mostly undone) 14’s and maybe some day i’ll be strong enough to attempt some of those!

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
    • Narc July 27, 2010 at 9:56 am #

      That was a fun one as well. Especially the needles-esque rocking over on little crystals near the top.

      GD Star Rating
      loading...
  2. kyber.c July 27, 2010 at 10:04 am #

    exactly! jugs to peebles and lovin it! aw man i could go on and on about loving ten sleep.. this was my first summer to miss in the last 4 years and it literally hurts my soul!

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
    • Narc July 27, 2010 at 10:47 am #

      I was actually surprised at how juggy that route was. I kept expecting it to get hard and it never really did other than the somewhat technical nature of the last part there.

      Save The Best For Last on the other hand did get hard at one point near the top and between the blasts of cold air and my fear of 2 finger pockets I have to say I was quite relieved to make it to the top of that one.

      GD Star Rating
      loading...
  3. Egghead July 27, 2010 at 10:43 am #

    Nice TR! Guessing you didn’t make it climbing in the Black Hills.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
    • Narc July 27, 2010 at 10:46 am #

      Correct. I haven’t climbed at all since we left Ten Sleep.

      GD Star Rating
      loading...
  4. Colin July 27, 2010 at 3:31 pm #

    Has anyone checked out Aaron Huey’s website? After reading the Narc’s comments about his guidebook, I expected something a bit twisted, but instead I am blown away by his photography. I’ve only looked through three of the albums (Afghanistan Drug War, America and Sufism), but I’m in awe.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  5. Paul Campbell July 29, 2010 at 11:17 am #

    Not to distract from the climbing but I see you did quite the circuit of national parks too. Highline trail in Glacier and Mt. Washburn in Yellowstone are both amazing hikes 🙂

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
    • Narc July 29, 2010 at 5:22 pm #

      The national parks were by far the highlight of the trip. I could have spent many weeks just hiking around in Glacier or the Tetons.

      GD Star Rating
      loading...
  6. splitter choss July 29, 2010 at 12:39 pm #

    that place looks incredible!

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  7. john cocktosin July 30, 2010 at 11:30 am #

    We spent 2 weeks in Tensleep late last September, and literally only saw one other climber in 10 or so days of climbing.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...