What Adam Ondra Did Instead Of The Vail World Cup

They should have, at least for an option, English subtitles. I didn’t watch it with sound on, because, I admittedly am in class right now, so I don’t know what the language situation is, but I’m assuming not English? We’ll see when I get home.

I guess the main thing I wanted to say, is that this looks like it was edited very well. As much as I feel Jens at 8spray.spew has conditioned me to DISLIKE Ondra because he always talks about how great he is as if nothing else besides him matters to the sport, I think that if you step away from that, he really is a fantastic climber. I look forward to seeing the movie when its all done. And something I’ve never said before, Ondra me proud to be part Czech.

Agree with cambellhill

#1: the ondra scream is a bit excessive.

#2: there are bad haircuts, then there’s that bad haircut. He’s got the Mia Wallace look, but curly.

“…he spent the week in Switzerland climbing 3 V14s including the FA of a project on the Riverbed boulder in Magic Wood…he completed 15 problems V10 or harder..”

Funny how there’s practically no reaction to this on the bouldering blogs. Apparently the best boulderer in the world is a sport climber who only occasionally boulders. Turn the tables and put some of the so-called ‘best” bpulderers on the hardest climbs and see what happens. They probably couldn’t even do the warm-ups.

Movie looks cool. Sharma is still king! Ondra has yet to pioneer this sport.

“If we took a V14 boulderer as an example, very few routes have moves at that difficulty so to “replicate that level” in sport climbing would require a very different style focused on stamina and endurance.”

Really? Why not just replicate it by doing V14 moves on routes? Because very few routes have moves that hard? Then put them up! Also that comment is somewhat non-sensical, since V14 is power-dependent, and does not “require a very different style focused on stamina and endurance.”

“Daniel Woods did do some sport climbing, for sure, but nothing in comparison difficulty-wise to achieving V16 at home. Going sport climbing could even be viewed as a resting phase.”

Then why’d DW come out of it bouldering harder than before? Not following you here.

I think you guys just don’t want to admit the reasons behind what is happening (Ondra crushing the elite boulderers, sport climbers winning bouldering comps etc) because it conflicts with your view of how the sport should be, not how it is. The situation we have is the equivalent of the 4-minute-mile guys keeping up with, and occasionally beating, the 100-meter dash specialists, and the obvious conclusion is that the 100-meter guys are simply not training the most effective way. In light of recent performances, the statement “Is bouldering the most effective path to mastering pure difficulty? Absolutely” just doesn’t hold up.

From the website under features of the film “tens of easier routes from 8a to 9a” hahahahaha!

Polar guy, you lost me..
V14 does not have to be power dependent at all; two of the (only) 3 I have done were very balancy, and very dependent on technique. The third was definitly all about stamina at 22 moves.. No one has shown any resistance to the fact that Adam is an amazing boulderer, despite (?) being primarily (up to now?) focused on sport climbing… There is no “path to mastering pure difficulty” other than yer own, and as soon as I can establish sport climbs that have v14 cruxes, you bet I will! There is no rift here between sport climbers and boulderers.. ?

you are all trying to generalize an exception. that can’t work imho.

has he him puberty yet? his scream sounds more like a spoiled teenager than true anguish.