June 09, 2010 
6 Comments
As expected, Jimmy Webb did the 7th ascent of Jade in RMNP, CO yesterday suggesting a downgrade to V14. Check out his blog for the video.
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Author: Jon Glassberg
Duration: 3:35
Views: 577
The Black Diamond Journal reports that Liuyong Bang did the 2nd ascent of Spicy Noodle in Yangshuo, China. Spicy Noodle was first done by Chris Sharma last year at 5.14b however a key hold broke raising the grade to 5.14c.
Joe Kinder reports on his blog that he did the FA of Waka Flocka, a possible 5.14b he bolted in Rifle, CO after relocating to the Western Slope last month. Kinder also repeated Livin’ The Dream, a proposed 5.14b extension to Living In Fear (5.13d) first done a couple of weeks ago by Jonathan Siegrist.
Daniel Woods took down another hard project at Mt. Evans, CO’s Lincoln Lake the other day with his FA of the so-called “Big Wall” project. Woods registered the new boulder on his 8a scorecard as Let The Right One In at a proposed grade of V14 calling it “one of the best I have done”.
who saw Paul send Lucid Dreaming?
I believe that BigUp filmed it, or someone did. It will be in the Reel Rock Film tour this year. Will you please just stop questioning it? Whats your deal?
On the real topic, Jimmy had said a send would be coming soon, and he called it. Its kind of surprising that it stood for so long and then is going down so quickly and even being downgraded. Two sends in a week and two downgrades is… well I wouldn’t say surprising because the question has been “will a downgrade come?” for a while… but it really brings up questions of what plays into a send like this and why such strong climbers have graded it harder.
Strong climbers will flock to classic hard lines in mega-classic sectors near hyper-popular cities. Basing a downgrade on the number of ascents is unjustified, small-minded, and unAmerican.
Didn’t the first three ascents occur fairly quickly too?
who said southern boys can’t crush….