Black Diamond has an interesting essay on their journal site that details Adam Ondra’s impressive sends in 2008 of WoGü (5.14b, 7 pitches, FFA) and Hotel Supramonte (5.14a, 10 pitches, First Onsight)

Essay On Adam Ondra’s Multi-pitch Achievements
Posted In: Asides, News, Traditional Climbing
Climbers: Adam Ondra
5 Responses to Essay On Adam Ondra’s Multi-pitch Achievements
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Kletternews & Klettervideos! | kletterblog.info -
April 23, 2010
[...] Pietro Dal Pra erinnert sich wie er Adam Ondra bei der Erstbegehung der Mehrseillängenroute “WoGü (8c)” und dem Onsight der Mehrseillängenroute “Hotel Supramonte (8b+)” sicherte – sehr stimmungsvoll! (via ClimbingNarc) [...]
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Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of his attempts here.
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That was interesting, but it makes me worried (again) that it is impossible to write well about climbing. That entire piece was fairly well-written but it basically amounts to navel-gazing hero worship. And I honestly can’t remember reading a “serious” piece about climbing that didn’t suffer from too much navel-gazing, too much faux-literary pretension, too much attempted mythologizing, or some combination of the three.
Or maybe I’m reading the wrong stuff. I don’t know.
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You may have a point but keep in mind this was a piece written for a sponsor by someone directly involved in both ascents. I just thought it was interesting to get more of a first hand account of these climbs.
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I actually enjoyed the entire thing, and your point about it being for a sponsor is well-taken. My critique is probably less about this particular piece of writing than it is about my concern that the entire genre of writing about climbing is doomed to be totally banal and boring. It might also be that I’m just bored and that’s bringing out my natural snobby tendency.
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I think you have a point on this particular essay. Yet I might be misjudging but the fact that it is not a first hand account of it makes a huge difference (to me at least).
I remember finding myself with sweaty hands after reading the short Tommy Caldwell essay on Mescalito that was posted on the BD website, if i recall correctly.
It seems that the mountaineering genre lends itself to the exercise a bit better. Same as for videos: as much as you would make a full feature movie about one particular mountain ascent, doing the same about one particular sports climb might turn out extremely dull.
Maybe sports climbing is forever condemned to be climbing porn in this media world.. My two cents.
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