New V12 In Minnesota

New V12 In Minnesota

First off, if you were unable to access climbingnarc.com over the weekend you were not alone.  Fortunately, the non-existent problem with my host has been corrected and the site is back up and running.  Thanks to everyone who let me know that the site was down.  Hopefully your weekend wasn’t ruined.

In other news, Nic Oklobzija did the FA of The Raven (V12) this weekend on the so-called 30 degree roof at Sandstone, Minnesota, adding it to the short list of “hardest problems in the midwest”.  Here’s the video:

The definition of what boulder problems are in “the midwest” is murky at best, (for the purposes of WI climbers I think that SoIll would probably be included as well since Sawmill up in MN is just as far away) but here is Nic’s “Big 6” hard problems in MN and WI:

  • The Amateur (V12/13 – Sawmill, MN – unrepeated)
  • The Raven (V12 – Sandstone, MN – unrepeated)
  • Left Of Lloyds SDS aka The Sporting Life (V12 – Taylor’s Falls, MN)
  • Left Of Lloyds (V11 – Taylor’s Falls, MN)
  • Exodus (V10/11 – Sawmill, MN)
  • The Keymaker (V10 – Devil’s Lake, WI)

I’m a lifetime 0 for 6, how about you??

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47 Responses to New V12 In Minnesota

  1. Jcoop March 8, 2010 at 9:17 am #

    Ha, I love this video. It really captures what I see as the “essence” of bouldering. Many many instances of extreme frustration and doubt all for that one incredible moment of elation and joy.

    Bravo!

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  2. Mark March 8, 2010 at 10:09 am #

    Stupid downtime. I was forced to go to 8a and vomit mentally reading that stuff. I almost posted a thread on the forum about how it sucks to have to read 8a when ClimbingNarc is down.

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  3. Remo March 8, 2010 at 2:04 pm #

    Nice Job Nic! Good work man!

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  4. Austin March 8, 2010 at 2:12 pm #

    wow, that video made my day! i guess that captures the essence of explosive bouldering =)

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  5. peachy March 8, 2010 at 3:20 pm #

    made me want to quit rock climbing…

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  6. Narc March 8, 2010 at 4:06 pm #

    Haha, I like the variety of reactions. I figured that would be the case.

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  7. nic March 8, 2010 at 4:25 pm #

    If you only knew..

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  8. jenkins March 8, 2010 at 4:37 pm #

    he may climb hard but that guy is a goddamn douche

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    • fish March 8, 2010 at 7:29 pm #

      actually i found it to be one of the more realistic and humanizing bouldering clips out there. it seems like the intention of the film was to show the spectrum of emotion that a person can experience while trying something at their physical limit.

      and i don’t know a single climber who hasn’t had a few moments of frustration while working on a project.

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    • Narc March 10, 2010 at 11:21 am #

      It might be beneficial people knew that jenkins knows nic (or at least I think he does) as do most of the people ripping on him.

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  9. Dylan March 8, 2010 at 4:38 pm #

    0 for 6, baby! Also, its quite frightening that the most attainable problem on that list, if you go by the grade, is the hardest climb at Devils Lake (shudder).

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  10. nic March 8, 2010 at 5:00 pm #

    Yeah, I’m a douche.

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    • Steve Schultz March 8, 2010 at 5:51 pm #

      A goddamn douche, I say. And a punter. Not sure what’s worse.

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  11. DJ March 8, 2010 at 6:51 pm #

    I absolutely LOVE the reaction!! That start looks likes a rodeo just to balance off and power to that first crimp. Sick line nonetheless my friend!

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  12. anthony March 8, 2010 at 10:12 pm #

    Nic is a super douche.. but that’s not always such a bad thing.. Great job, Nic!

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  13. Egghead March 8, 2010 at 10:24 pm #

    Nice send! Wow. He could have simply edited the vid to show the send and put it to lame thumpin hip hop so nobody would see how utterly human it all was, but chose not to. Cool.

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  14. Crafty March 9, 2010 at 1:06 am #

    Amazing problem- the video doesn’t really do it justice.

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  15. Crafty March 9, 2010 at 1:12 am #

    Also- I would consider the list a touch contrived-

    A. No individual has completed the Big 6. Jim has done all but the Raven and Keymaker, Nic all but the Amateur.

    B. This Sporting Life is just a sit start to Left of Lloyds- thats a touch forced.

    C. As the Narc pointed out, SoIll isn’t included.

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  16. Ener March 9, 2010 at 1:33 am #

    Looks like a great problem… so they got other stuff in Minnesota besides snow and white rappers? I was unaware. Congrats Nic, welcome to the “I scream like a 6 year old girl” club! Well done chap.

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  17. Lynn March 9, 2010 at 8:02 am #

    hahahah! That is the best range of Nic emotions ever compiled! From “I hate this! I don’t even want to come back here!” to the throaty, constipated sounding “Yeesss!”‘s at the end, coupled with all the muscle flexing. This is the video to show your friends when you’re trying to describe the nature of bouldering.

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  18. Narc March 9, 2010 at 9:40 am #

    Who knew Nic was more polarizing than Sarah Palin??

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  19. nic March 9, 2010 at 10:40 am #

    Also- I would consider the list a touch contrived-

    A. No individual has completed the Big 6. Jim has done all but the Raven and Keymaker, Nic all but the Amateur.

    B. This Sporting Life is just a sit start to Left of Lloyds- thats a touch forced.

    Yes, Agreed. The 6 is back to 5.

    C. As the Narc pointed out, SoIll isn’t included.

    I am working on a 2nd list including
    Soill What are the hardest there?

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    • Narc March 9, 2010 at 10:43 am #

      Depends what you are looking for. Since we don’t have anything harder in WI V10 makes the list but my guess is that SoIll has more hard problems to choose from. New Zero (V13) comes to mind.

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  20. Crafty March 9, 2010 at 1:01 pm #

    Although SoIll is 12 hours from MN and WI (all the previous problems are within maybe 5 hours of each other?) So maybe it doesn’t need to be included? Either way the stuff in Illinois is amazing. And lots of it is difficult.

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    • Narc March 9, 2010 at 1:07 pm #

      Unfortunately for me, I live pretty much equi-distant from Sawmill, SoiLL and the RRG. In other words, southeast WI is one of the worst places to live if you like climbing outdoors.

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  21. Nic March 9, 2010 at 1:16 pm #

    if you add in So ILL you will have to then add in So DAK and Arkansas. They are all equal distance from MN/WISCO. So ill does have a ton of hard things but I can oly think of 3 v12+’s.

    Air Jordan (2 repeats??)
    Year of the Renegade (v12)
    New Zero (v13)

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  22. Egghead March 9, 2010 at 7:14 pm #

    MP lists 5 problems in South Dakota V10 to V11. There probably are others, perhaps some harder. From Minneapolis it’s probably 10 hours to Rushmore though.

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  23. Dylan March 9, 2010 at 10:27 pm #

    New option: arbitrarily declare the twin cities to be the geographical center of the midwest, and call everything more than 8 hours drive from the twin cities too far to count, the list stands. Or just drop the Keymaker and call it the Minnesota list.

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  24. Crafty March 9, 2010 at 10:35 pm #

    Point. Dylan.

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  25. Narc March 10, 2010 at 11:19 am #

    Either way, WI needs to step its game up. No hard boulders anywhere in the state or no hard boulderers???????????????

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    • Steve Schultz March 10, 2010 at 11:53 am #

      No hard boulderers…

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      • sweaty March 10, 2010 at 12:03 pm #

        agreed. full of punters.

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        • Steve Schultz March 10, 2010 at 12:31 pm #

          Filthy punters. They’re dirtier than apes.

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          • sweaty March 10, 2010 at 1:51 pm #

            the title of your blog, now that you all are climbing and not just drinking should be changed to Sicky gnar gnar ‘a climbing blog by a punter for the common punter’

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  26. Crafty March 10, 2010 at 1:22 pm #

    hey, at least you have good cheese curds.

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  27. lex March 10, 2010 at 4:16 pm #

    It’s silly how some people don’t climb for the pleasure of it and just for the outcome, a person climbing should never have that angry reaction and instead appreciate the process, That happens mostly on bouldering , indoor climbing and a little less but also in sport climbing and so on… Sad dude…
    Its good to see that some climbers have a good time, push even harder than that, often fail and walk out laughing…
    Age doesn’t seem to be the indicator of lack of control …
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yBFxG0brpU

    Get a grip!

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  28. Unknown March 10, 2010 at 4:40 pm #

    “a person climbing should never have that angry reaction and instead appreciate the process”

    judgment.

    “Its good to see that some climbers have a good time, push even harder than that, often fail and walk out laughing…”

    Name 1 person.

    Where to Begin…

    1) Have you climbed with Paul? If so, you would know he cares just as much as nic does and does not except Failure *(to the point of throwing things).

    2)Your implying nic does not climb for pleasure?

    You are sadly mistaken.

    Do you get upset driving? or when you stub your toe?

    you shouldn’t you should enjoy the experience.

    Let me guess you drive a prius and are a vegan, and love the smell of your farts?

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  29. Nic Oklobzija March 10, 2010 at 5:04 pm #

    Oh my, this is the best comment ever.

    “a person climbing should never have that angry reaction and instead appreciate the process”

    I will admit that your right. I do not drive for 3h, hike for 1h, get dirty, make minimal money working a job in the climbing industry, drop out of college, live in a van, break up with girlfriends, and spend thousands of dollars because I like it. I do it so I can add another accomplishment to my 8a card.

    I hate climbing to be honest.

    I am unsure of what climbers you are referring to when you say,

    “Its good to see that some climbers have a good time, push even harder than that, often fail and walk out laughing…”

    I will agree I am emotionally effected if I do, or do not do a rock climb. I will also agree it is a bit much to watch.

    But do you know me? I am offended you called my climbing life “sad” or at least you implied that it was.

    I also know Paul really well and wish I had footage of him on his bad days. It can get just as ridiculous.

    @ unknown,

    the south park reference was classic. AND I guess you know me? who are you?

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  30. lex March 10, 2010 at 6:01 pm #

    Woow! You took it the wrong way for sure , didn’t mean you are a sad guy or anything personal to you, I actually had never heard about you, but I felt sad for watching your angry reaction and than saying you just wanted to be fucking done and didn’t want to go back there anymore…

    Even if one person can’t climb above v10 everybody usually climb at their limit and failure is a sure feeling in climbing, some have better ways to deal with it , and on this video, it appeared to me that it was not very easy for you to handle it, so I went on and made my comments…

    Im utterly sorry if you felt offended, that wasn’t my intention and I don’t hold anything against you at all, actually I admire you for sticking to it.
    I could mention a hand full of climbers that would never let it explode like that, but I don’t think it would help our discussion actually, you are on the spotlight and could avoid creating a that bad first impression … someone who should be your fan is now trying to not become your enemy for criticizing you…

    we cool?

    @unknown,
    You seem to like listing things, so her is one for ya…

    1)I am a butcher

    2)I drive a Bronco

    3)I do enjoy the smell of my farts

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  31. Egghead March 10, 2010 at 7:43 pm #

    Punters and old guys. Or one and the same. 🙂

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  32. Name (required) March 10, 2010 at 11:20 pm #

    So just for the record, are you climbing as hard as Alex (WI native (for the record as well)?

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  33. yohans March 12, 2010 at 12:49 am #

    Ha! F’n’ hilarious. Pretty ridiculous but sheeeet, I don’t know any climber who have never thrown a shitstorm at a problem. As long as it is the oddity not the norm, everyone should take a chill pill.

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  34. yup March 17, 2010 at 12:49 am #

    what a terrible image for the climbing community… go back to preschool

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  35. DRL March 17, 2010 at 10:45 am #

    Kinda newbish behavior. Many of us have been there, but due to the grade he REALLY thinks he is special. One day he’ll laugh at this…maybe he already is…I hope.

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  36. nic March 17, 2010 at 11:02 am #

    Your right it is a terrible image for the climbing community, like a skate boarder breaking his board.

    And yes, it is funny to me. But you should have seen me trying “Bum boy”. If you had you would know the grade has nothing to do with it.

    I think it is funny that everyone is passing judgment based on the grade of the climb. I am a “douche”, I do over react, I do take too much satisfaction away from “getting to the top”, and I get frustrated by the “experience”.

    Because I agree with you on all of this I have made the video private.

    btw,

    If you put yourself out there in anyway on the internet you must be prepared for some feedback. I was ready, I did get some flack and now understand being under the radar.

    For my friends,

    If you want to see the videos I have and will have e-mail me and I will give you the password.

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