Climbing Video: Chris Sharma On First Round First Minute, Neanderthal FA

Climbing Video: Chris Sharma On First Round First Minute, Neanderthal FA

Posted February 1, 2010 at 4:38 pm · Comments { 19 } ·

Prana has put out some really nice video profiles (in HD!) on their athletes of late with both Paul Robinson and Fred Nicole being featured in past weeks.

Their latest video features (among other things) Chris Sharma doing his thing on the First Round First Minute project in Margalef and the FA of Neanderthal (5.15b) in Santa Linya.  Don’t miss the huge whipper after the credits.  Mas!

Posted In: Sport Climbing, Videos
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  • http://thelifeandclimbs.blogspot.com Mark

    The video loaded across the News and Notes on the right side of the page. Might just be me tho.

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    • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

      I did that on purpose since the video looked so good in the wide format but perhaps it is better to just include the version that fits?

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      • http://thelifeandclimbs.blogspot.com Mark

        Whatever floats your boat, its up to you. I just mentioned it because the black text (I think it was the black text) of news and notes showed up in the video. Good video though.

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        • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

          That is not ideal. I see now that you can just watch the video in fullscreen anyhow so that negates the need for having it extra-wide on the page.

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  • Dylan

    Well deserved whipper, I might add. Also, the full version may prove me wrong, but it looks like the FRFM footage is a lot smoother, perhaps because the Neanderthal send was unexpected so there were no gigantic tracking rigs?

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    • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

      I doubt that the tracking rig is going to be used all the time. I’m guessing it’s not that easy to setup and overusing it would probably get old for viewers.

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  • haterade

    Now, I know the climb was all but over, but was anyone else surprised that Chris pulled on the anchors to get to the top of the climb? He looked around for a hold, didn’t find anything he liked, gave up, and pulled himself up on the anchors (on the FA of a 5.15b). Legit?

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  • sweaty

    well there were no draws on it because it looked as if it was being used by the camera person… had there been draws he would have been able to clip from the holds he was on before grabbing that rope. no?

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  • Daniel

    He would certainly have been able to clip the anchor from the jug in his right hand. But there was neither a quickdraw nor a carabiner, or rahter, the camerman was using the only draw. That’s probably the reason why he said “Don’t kill me, you can grab ‘em!” to Chris. Seemed to be a bit of a suprise send, if you ask me..

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    • haterade

      True, and what is considered the top here is necessarily arbitrary and up to interpretation. But the fact that the camera man told him to grab the anchors doesnt justify the act – I’m sure there were other holds he could have used to get himself to the final standing position. Should it matter? Maybe not, but this was a first ascent of a route given the hardest grade in the world, so its a little disappointing to see a blemish on the send…

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      • sweaty

        i think just by calling yourself ‘haterade’ you know that you are setting yourself up to be nit-picky. How often do you end your routes in a comfy standing position? My guess is not ofter. More often you are clipping the chains from below.

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  • Paul Campbell

    LOL blemished his send? Chris was in a solid position on a vertical wall with a huge jug. He reached and touched the anchors with his left hand before the camera man tells him to grab the anchor.

    There were no quickdraws on the anchor and none on his harness. He could have EASILY clipped if that was the case.

    Get over it.

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  • Crafty

    Yeah, the climb was over, Chris knew it and looked down after touching the anchors. If he had just let go he would’ve SMASHED into whomever was filming.

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  • http://boulderingtucson.com joe

    The climb isn’t over until the internet says it’s over! INVALID!

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    • colin

      LMAO! hahaha.

      Great little video, BTW.

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  • Paully

    CLEARLY the only disappointing thing about the send of Neandertal is that Sharma had a haircut before he sent. Gotta have the epic locks!!!

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  • http://thelifeandclimbs.blogspot.com Mark

    I just realized while watching this the other day that the video clip of Sharma just messing/goofing around/warming up in Bishop is him doing his thing on Evilution. I know he has the FA on Evilution to the lip, but I didn’t think about that until I recognized the moves and the cut feet after seeing Jason Kehl’s video so many time. Thats just a beast of a problem.

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  • http://www.blackcore.com tim

    on the evilution note – i could only shake my head in wonder.. i’m currently working that problem and that undercling grab is only *barely* possible for me if i have set up my feet.

    and sharma just casually grabs it.. sick.

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    • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

      No doubt. It’s good to hear you’re back climbing Tim. Looking forward to seeing more images from Bishop hint, hint :)

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