The Big Up blog has a nice update on Chris Sharma’s efforts to free the First Round First Minute project in Margalef. Apparently he is getting frustrated after falling at least 15 times from the last move. Venga Chris!

Chris Sharma First Round Update From Spain
Posted In: Asides, Sport Climbing
Climbers: Chris Sharma
Areas: Margalef
10 Responses to Chris Sharma First Round Update From Spain
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Climbing Video: Chris Sharma On First Round First Minute, Neanderthal -
February 1, 2010
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Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
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I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.






Venga! Or as they say in France, allez! I don’t know what they say in America…
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Whips out a 9b almost as an afterthought, yet denied for weeks/months on this thing. Anyone else catching a whiff of 15c?
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i’m not sure about that. jumbo love took weeks of work as well, and neanderthal also received a fair share of working by sharma prior to its first ascent send.
i have a feeling this will be another 15b. it’s still a young grade, and i don’t see there being a 15c until 15b is more established (although i’m not sure how many 15a’s there were before the first 15b, so that could be a weak argument). plus sharma seems pretty cautious about over-rating things.
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Jumbo took a lot of work, but my sense is that Sharma is at a higher level now. Only time will tell.
If the doubts around “Akira” are resolved (not sure if this is the case, especially as there has only been one ascent) then 15b was actually established five years BEFORE 15a!
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pardon my redundancy at the end of that first paragraph.
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Actually credit should go out to Alexander Huber for the first 15a after Adam Ondra confirmed Open Air as 9a+
Open Air was put up in 1996.
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ain’t other climbers on the route as well???
what if one of does does it before the designated first ascender?
we’ll see…
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whats next for sharma after FRFM, does anyone know anything about some of his other projects?
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You have a mistake in the article, this route is in Margalef, Margalef is Catalonia, Catalonia is not Spain
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